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Thread: Oils - can we set up a definitive list

  1. #81
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kidbeen View Post

    I understand though that changing to other brand oils in vehicles is not a wise move. Is that fact or fiction?
    Total fiction.
    Buy the best oil you can afford that's readily available.
    I prefer at a minimum an API CI-4+/ACEA C4/C6/C7 oil.

    The R380 g/box can be a little finicky.
    If you're happy with the shifting you can stick with a Dex III spec. ATF and change it every. 10,000km but...

    The factory revised the oil spec in '96 to MTF94, which is a 75W-80 GL4 manual trans fluid.
    Quite a few have found Castrol Sytrans 75W-85 to be a better/more suitable for Australia and much more available fluid, especially if you are getting notchy shifting and bearing/gear rattle at higher ambient temps.
    I'd still change this at 20,000km even though it's a trick full synthetic. The R380 seems to be really hard on fluid.

    My all time favourite is Motul Gear 300, but it is silly $$, and most people refuse to use it as it's a 75W-90, but it works really well in my experience.
    Due to its crazy high viscosity index, it's actually thinner than Syntrans at 0°C....

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Buderim Qld
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Total fiction.
    Buy the best oil you can afford that's readily available.
    I prefer at a minimum an API CI-4+/ACEA C4/C6/C7 oil.

    The R380 g/box can be a little finicky.
    If you're happy with the shifting you can stick with a Dex III spec. ATF and change it every. 10,000km but...

    The factory revised the oil spec in '96 to MTF94, which is a 75W-80 GL4 manual trans fluid.
    Quite a few have found Castrol Sytrans 75W-85 to be a better/more suitable for Australia and much more available fluid, especially if you are getting notchy shifting and bearing/gear rattle at higher ambient temps.
    I'd still change this at 20,000km even though it's a trick full synthetic. The R380 seems to be really hard on fluid.

    My all time favourite is Motul Gear 300, but it is silly $$, and most people refuse to use it as it's a 75W-90, but it works really well in my experience.
    Due to its crazy high viscosity index, it's actually thinner than Syntrans at 0°C....
    Thanks. So in layman terms what Brand for the Engine do you recommend? What one do you use?

  3. #83
    Pub247 Guest
    Whats peoples thought on Penrite HPR Diesel 20-60. This summer heat has shown i suffer from extremely poor oil pressure in 100c (engine temp) conditions like 7psi hot idle. I was thinking of running it in summer then switching back to 15-40 in winter. And yes, i have almost half a million k's on my 300tdi

  4. #84
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pub247 View Post
    Whats peoples thought on Penrite HPR Diesel 20-60. This summer heat has shown i suffer from extremely poor oil pressure in 100c (engine temp) conditions like 7psi hot idle. I was thinking of running it in summer then switching back to 15-40 in winter. And yes, i have almost half a million k's on my 300tdi
    I'd replace your big ends.
    Generally they need doing around 280,000km.

    20W-60 is just miles too heavy unless the engine is really tired and loose.

  5. #85
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kidbeen View Post
    Thanks. So in layman terms what Brand for the Engine do you recommend? What one do you use?
    Seriously, whatever the best deal you can get on something from one of the big players sporting at least one of the specs I listed above will be fine.
    Just don't exceed 10,000km, and if you do short trips and/or stop/start city driving bring the oil change interval right back.

    The Tdi only has a smallish sump and it runs hot, as IMO the oil cooling is inadequate.
    Even premium full synthetic heavy duty diesel oils that are ok out to 100,000km in interstate trucks are pretty much toast by 17,000km in a 300Tdi.

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