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Thread: 3.9V8 to 4.6V8

  1. #1
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    3.9V8 to 4.6V8

    From reading a lot of threads concerning converting 3.9s/4.0s to a 4.6, at the macro level I understand I need a 4.6 crank, conrods and pistons (are these last two needed - if so why can't the 3.9s conrods and pistons be used?)

    Where would be the best place (cheapest of course) to source these bits new - always on the look for second hand but they seem to only come up rarely.

    Also where is the best place (cheapest) to get top hat liners.

    Thanks

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #2
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    A 4.0/4.6 has bigger main bearings than a 3.5/3.9. So the 4.6 crank will not fit into a 3.9 block The reason you need different rods/pistons is that with extra stroke the old ones would stick out of the bore at TDC. You need to get a whole 4.6 short motor. The only long stroke conversion that will fit the 3.5 is the rare 4.2 crank/rod/piston set. I don't know how it would go with the 3.9 piston bore size.

  3. #3
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    It might be worth visiting "RPi Engineering - Specialised Rover Engines" for lost of info on Rover V8s, conversions etc.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    So the 4.6 crank will not fit into a 3.9 block
    I understood the 3.9 and the early 4.6 out of the P38 were the same block - the higher graded blocks became 4.6s and the lower graded blocks became 3.9s.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #5
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    Not 3.9 but 4.0.

    Name changed reputedly to match Jeep in advertising but a 4.0 has the same bottom end layout as a 4.6 but shorter stroke.

    Crank, rods, pistons, are different to a 3.9
    Regards Philip A

  6. #6
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    Ok - so I have misunderstood.

    So the original basic engine design line ended with the 3.9. A new block design (well heavily modified) was introduced with the 4.6 in about 95 which was produced concurrent with the different 3.9 blocks until late 98 when all V8 engines had the same same blocks with different strokes resulting in the new 4.0 (same actual capacity as the 3.9 but different block/induction) and the old 4.6.

    Thanks for clearing that up as I might have looked at getting a 4.6 crank etc only to find it would not go into my 3.9. I assume 4.2 cranks etc are rare and as expensive as hens teeth.

    How does the P76 4.4 compare to both the 4.2 and the 4.6?

    Thanks

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  7. #7
    steve_35 Guest

  8. #8
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    The P76 motor is physically wider (about 25mm) as the Australian engineers used longer rods to maintain smoothness. Crankshaft main bearings and flywheel mounting flange are different. Inlet manifold is a 2 barrel downdraft type. The inlet manifold off a Rover can be used with spacer plates but is prone to vacuum leaks around the spacers. Plenty of P76 motors have been fitted to early Range Rovers etc but they are getting harder to get parts for. My engine shop can no longer source main bearings for them. ACL made them last in 2004 but I suspect that is the end of them. The P76 heads lack the mountings used on the Rovers for alternators and a/c brackets. Using the Rover heads involves using hollow pushrods as the P76 does not run pressure fed rocker shafts.
    Really the most reliable conversion is a proper 4.6 rebuilt to best practice etc, then just bolt your bits on to it.

  9. #9
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    I know of a complete P76 with auto gearbox for sale in Melbourne.

  10. #10
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    For your 3.9 you could look for a Buick 300 crank. Takes a little bit of work and a few specialized parts, but will stroke a 3.9 to around 4.8.

    Here is a couple of links I've found about it.

    Affordable Aluminum Buick / Rover Stroker Motor, by Kurt Schley

    And a company that supplies all of the parts that you will need,

    D&D Fabrications: Engineering & Fabrication Services

    I've spoken to Mark from D&D and he is a really helpful guy and really knows his stuff. I'm in the process of ordering some parts for the engine I'm building for my Disco.

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