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Thread: 300Tdi engine oil leaks

  1. #1
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    300Tdi engine oil leaks

    When a 300 Tdi leaks engine oil, where does it most commonly come from? I need to clean it up to try to work it out but what's the most likely scenario given the collective experience of other 300 Tdi owners? It's done about 180000km.

  2. #2
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    Rear mains / T seals are common but I'd be giving it a good wash down & trying to trace the exact cause of the leaks before tackling that job.

    Rocker cover gaskets + brake vacuum pumps are known to leak too.
    Scott

  3. #3
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    Also - sump gasket as the 300 TDI's don't have a gasket as such, just use Silicone. Can be a bit tricky to get it right.

    Also look at the oil breather coming out of the tappet cover (Above the fuel pump) there is a "o" ring that can be replaced.

    I have also had to replace the gasket for the bracket that holds the oil filter. Watch the oil pipes in that area as well.

    Cheers
    Adrew
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  4. #4
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    Ditto on what the fella's above have said.

    With the vacuum pump I bodgied mine by epoxying the welsch plug and just silicon sealing the joint flange.

    Inlet manifold gasket splits/cracks too, leading to a massive oil stain down the side of the block under the manifold from the oil blow-by that comes through from the oil seperator.

    Oil cooler lines leak at the crimp.

    I've had to do the sump twice too.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse View Post
    Rear mains / T seals are common but I'd be giving it a good wash down & trying to trace the exact cause of the leaks before tackling that job.

    Rocker cover gaskets + brake vacuum pumps are known to leak too.

    I did the rear main recently when I had the gearbox out. I've replaced the rocker cover gasket too. The brake vacuum pump is definitely a candidate.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86mud View Post
    Also - sump gasket as the 300 TDI's don't have a gasket as such, just use Silicone. Can be a bit tricky to get it right.

    Also look at the oil breather coming out of the tappet cover (Above the fuel pump) there is a "o" ring that can be replaced.

    I have also had to replace the gasket for the bracket that holds the oil filter. Watch the oil pipes in that area as well.

    Cheers
    Adrew

    The sump doesn't leak. The previous owner took care of that. I've replaced the O ring in the oil breather fairly recently and it doesn't seem to be leaking, and the oil filter gasket looks alright too. The oil's mainly towards the rear of the engine.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Ditto on what the fella's above have said.

    With the vacuum pump I bodgied mine by epoxying the welsch plug and just silicon sealing the joint flange.

    Inlet manifold gasket splits/cracks too, leading to a massive oil stain down the side of the block under the manifold from the oil blow-by that comes through from the oil seperator.

    Oil cooler lines leak at the crimp.

    I've had to do the sump twice too.
    Thanks Rick. I'm thinking the vacuum pump is my main culprit but the inlet manifold gasket might be laking a bit too. I'll clean it all up tomorrow and go from there.

  8. #8
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    Have a good look at brake vacuum pump and oil cooler lines

  9. #9
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    O ring under the oil thermostate cover went in mine

  10. #10
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    Angry

    Maybe the question could have been "is there anywhere on a landy engine that does not leak oil?"

    However, if it is messy at the rear of the 300tdi engine, drivers side, it's very possibly the vacuum pump. If it's the front passenger side, very possibly manifold gasket. Other messy options are hose on power steering pump, any slightly loose clamps on the air hoses, the gasket under the oil cap etc.

    If it is the oil thermostat o-ring, do not muck about, only use the correct o-ring as suplied by a reputable landy parts supplier. If you use a "kit" one, very real risk you will be calling your parts supplier looking for an o-ring and a housing to replace the broken one.

    Best bet is a real good dose of degreaser, then pressure wash, and a good look around with a bright torch. Then fix the leak, or leks as you find them.

    It's a game you can play for months!

    Andy

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