Thread: Declining fuel economy from 300tdi

Originally Posted by discoveryseries1

[snip]
a k&N filter is a good option because they preform better and can be washed hence are cheeper than the 30$ ryco deal you get at s cheep auto.

[snip]

Originally Posted by discoveryseries1

no worries mate, we all have to do what we have to do. best rule of thumb with filters is hold it up to a light if you can see clear light braking through it she is good, if you cant, how the hell can air get through it ? lol
[snip]

Don't use a K&N or any other washable cotton gauze filter in a 4WD if you would like the engine to survive for a prolonged period

In a 300Tdi

a) it isn't needed, OE filters in a Defender flow more than enough air in a stock engine, or a Donaldson or Fleetguard filter is a better bet and it will fit in the stock housing (less restrictive again and more paper area)

b) a K&N lets far too much through, the small stuff that wears bores

I'll dig up the K&N filter tests we've done on here or just PM isuzurover and ask what he thinks of K&N's.

Some reading here (links) http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/3...ve-answer.html

Originally Posted by jakeslouw

1) Check for oil in the IC.
2) Run 500ml of good non-synth two-stroke thru a full tank of diesel to clean up the injector tips and combustion chambers
3) Have the turbo boost checked: if the turbo is not healthy, your consumption starts to suffer
4) Check your oil for diesel residue: could be injector seals

I've run an ashless full syn two stroke as a pump lube, but I doubt it would move too much from the tips and chambers in one tank, even though JASO FD oils have pretty good detegency (and i don't think any mineral based oils can meet JASO FD ??)

A good diesel cleaner like Redline RL2 which has pretty strong detegents plus a syn two stroke for lubrication might be a better bet for a cleanup, and some fuel additives can be corrosive, so choose carefully.
I know that Redlines additives don't show on used oil analysis, unlike some.

A 300Tdi doesn't have the O ring problem of a TD5 either, mechanical injection, copper washers under the injectors

Originally Posted by discoveryseries1

[snip]

if i couldent get shell fuel i would go moble, for the reasion they are the second and only other fuel company that refines in australia that i am aware of. both of wich are in melbourne.

BP have refineries in Brisbane and Perth and refine diesel at both (and that's why BP Ultimate diesel is available in those two states)
Caltex and Shell have refineries in Sydney and Caltex spent a small fortune upgrading Kurnell for ULSD production.
Caltex has a refinery in Brisbane that produces ULS diesel too.
Can't remember if there's a refinery in SA/Adelaide ?
[edit] Port Stanvac refinery in Adelaide was mothballed by Mobil a while back apparently and is being demolished.

James, as the other fella's have suggested try some different fuel and definitely adjust the rockers, JC swears it makes a big improvement on the cars he services.

I've had economy variations just from the difference between summer and winter fuels here.

Originally Posted by Jock The Rock

Roughly howmany ks ago was that?

I haven't been away on a long distance trip for two years () so I'd say Ive only done around 15000kms since the guy who serviced it reported the gaps were out and had adjusted them.

I added injector cleaner to each tank about 12 months ago and I might run it through again. According to my blog at the time it is called Dynafuel.

I'll also replace the fuel filter and after I do that I'll sell a kidney and try some BP super diesel.

Will report back in a month or two.

Thanks for all the great ideas everyone.

Originally Posted by discoveryseries1

first 11 is not bad, im fitted out with both front and rear bars, and some other nick nacks, also i have a power chip. im advraging around 14l/100 with mud tyres (31")

My 1997 Tdi has done 214000km I run 32" Muddies, with a bull bar and long range tank (heavy). I average 10L/100km. It doesn't get worse than 12.5l/100km on stockton beach. I'd be upset and worried with an average of 14l/100km - seriously.

How do you have a power chip on a mechanically injected vehicle? My pump has been tweaked to give me a bit extra.

Originally Posted by jakeslouw

1) Check for oil in the IC.

I have to do this on my td5 as economy has gone to peices.. changed the intercooler hoses at the weekend and was amazed how much oil was in there and the other side..

been looking at the provents too.. but as i have 2 td5s...

I'd be checking this just to be sure also...

As for BP ultimate... i lost a 100k's on the disco td5 the one time i tried it.. we generally use peak in both.. as we get the discount and the servo we use is the cheapest around (even over other peak servos)

Steve

Originally Posted by Lucy

My 1997 Tdi has done 214000km I run 32" Muddies, with a bull bar and long range tank (heavy). I average 10L/100km. It doesn't get worse than 12.5l/100km on stockton beach. I'd be upset and worried with an average of 14l/100km - seriously.

How do you have a power chip on a mechanically injected vehicle? My pump has been tweaked to give me a bit extra.

Some Disco's (hardly any made it to Australia ?) have an electronically controlled boost compensator instead of the mechanical one, with #1 injector having a sensor on it.
They actually can be 'chipped'.

My 'fender with the fuel turned up, 33" MT's, ladders on top, bull bar, winch, sidesteps and brush bars, etc, etc. tares out at around 2660kg with the gear I have in it all the time and mostly uses somewhere between 11.5 and 12.5l/100km whenever I've bothered checking (not often)
Defenders push a lot more air than a Disco too.