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Thread: Central locking

  1. #1
    Paynestar Guest

    Central locking

    Hi, my central locking is supposed to work with my key as I dont have a button setup. When I unlock the car via the drivers door, it only unlocks the drivers lock. When I lock the car via the drivers it locks all doors. Very rarely, when I unlock the car sometimes the other locks unlock, but when you attempt to open the door, it locks itself just as pull the handle. Annoying. Any suggestions. Would a new central locking kit fix it? or is it just a simple step. Something is def playing in the locking system.

    All posts will be appreciated.

    Cheers Payney

    oh and the car is a 92 model range rover.

  2. #2
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    pushing the unlock buton once unlocks the drivers door, pushing it twice unlocks all the doors.
    Dylan
    03 Disco 2a, TD5, Olso blue, 7 seater, Auto, Chipped, EGR'd, 2"lift, SLS, Dual Batteries, Provent, TM-2 engine saver

  3. #3
    Paynestar Guest
    Nah, I dont have pushbutton central locking. Just an old fashioned key. cheers

  4. #4
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    It could be the allignment of the solenoid inside the drivers door. If the drivers side one has moved, then the switching positions could be wrong. Maybe just pull the door skin off, and check the solenoid/switches and any linkages to see if they are loose/mis alligned/bent?

    Not sure what all this looks like off the top of my head - I have had a quick look at mine last time I had the door skins off putting some new speakers in, but didn't pay much attention as mine are still working... touch wood.

  5. #5
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    Sounds like a problem with the microswitches inside the master actuator- the one in the driver's door. These actuators are not solenoids; they have a small 12v motor that drives a train of gears ending in a rack that moves to pull the locking mechanism one way or the other. In the master one, there are 2 microswitches- they are tripped by the movement of the rack and send a signal to the other actuators. The microswitches are mounted on thin plastic lugs, the lugs may have snapped off causing the microswitches to be out of position so they will do the wrong thing at the wrong time. They are fairly easy to dismantle, you could get hold of a dead actuator- doesn't have to be a master one as the cases are the same so the lugs are there-and transfer the innards of your broken master one into a shell that has intact lugs.

  6. #6
    Paynestar Guest
    Awesome, thanks for that. Ill have a few beers this arvo and have a look


    Muchly appreciated

  7. #7
    Presto's Avatar
    Presto is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    I've just gone through this on my Disco.

    Pull the drivers door skin off as suggested, check the actuator mounting. Manually move the actuator in and out to see if it activates the other doors. If this doesn't work, check that the link to the door lock isn't restricting its full stroke. Remove the actuator from the door, and try again. If it still only works ocassionally, then you'll need to replace this actuator (assuming all other door actuators aren't goosed - very unlikely). If it works fine, then the links to the lock are restricting enough motion to trip the microswitch as suggested previously.
    I had a combined problem of the drivers (master) actuator being faulty, and two other doors would only open - not lock. I had to replace all 3.

    If you don't already have remote central locking, the standard drivers actuator may only sense lock or unlock from the key movement, it may not have the ability to be powered. A typical 'master' (drivers) actuator has 5 wires to it, one each for Sense lock/unlock, power lock/unlock and an earth. The slaves (for all other doors) have only 2 wires for power lock/unlock.

    These are around $15 each from Jaycar or Rapid, but I found an offer for remote central locking including 4 actuators (1 master 3 slaves) - $65 and I now have a button
    REMOTE CENTRAL LOCKING (4 Door) - Rapid Electronics
    This also includes an immobiliser, which is a bonus!

    The only issue with fitting non-standard actuators is getting the length of the link right.

    Hope this helps - Let me know if I can help further!
    1994 D110 Tdi - 1957 88" Series 1 - New Project (due to commence 2056)

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