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Thread: No Brakes on Defender 130

  1. #1
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    No Brakes on Defender 130

    Hi All,

    have just had all new pistons and seals put in the defender, I purchased them from Melbourne Landy spares, got a mechanic to put them in, he said they were all different sizes so used some old and some new,

    now I dont no which is which but even on a dirt road I cant lock up the wheels, is there anything else that could be wrong, note all the rotors are ok, front ones new, I think I'll have to redo all the seals again

    Any thoughts

    thanks in advance

    Scottyp

  2. #2
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    hows the pedal feel, have you done the test for the booster?
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  3. #3
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    If you pull the vacuum hose off the booster whilst the engine is running and put your finger over the end of the hose, is there a strong vacuum ? If not, your pump has died.
    '95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
    '85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzu110 View Post
    If not, your pump has died.
    And my experience says that's not uncommon



    Martyn

  5. #5
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    I've owned 2 130's (1994 and 2003) BOTH have had the boosters fail!
    They are the most cheaply made bits of rubbish I have ever seen!
    Not re-buildable, and made from such thin pressed steel that they fatigue crack and loose vacuum.
    Try running the engine for a min, then get someone to turn it off while you have your ear next to the booster, don't touch the brakes, if you can hear any air noise, and the seal where the hose goes in is in good nick, you will probably find the booster body has cracked around the bolt holes allowing it to loose vacuum.
    I found a place in Ballarat the cheapest place to get one (they post aus wide)
    I'm going to be looking for a replacement from an old Holden/Ford next time mine goes.
    I have an old VH-44 booster dating from the 70's that has been re-built twice for loose change, and it's still going strong.

    Rant over,

    Fraser

  6. #6
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    Yes, had a fatigue crack in a booster as well. Appeared as a vertical crack on the booster adjacent to where the master cylinder attaches. Check both sides. A smear of silicon over the crack got me home.
    '95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
    '85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
    '76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)

  7. #7
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    Thanks guys, sounds like a fair bet, will check on the weekend,

    Thanks again

    Scottyp

  8. #8
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    Just to continue this a little, does anyone with parts knowledge know the difference between STC4322-A vs STC4322-B??
    If one is better built than the other, I'd like to get that one!

    Fraser

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by scotyp View Post
    Thanks guys, sounds like a fair bet, will check on the weekend,

    Thanks again

    Scottyp
    Scotty, just have a look at the main housing next to the 2 bolts that hold the master cyl in place, you may see the paint cracked a little.
    If you do, brush off the flakes of paint and stick some Gaffer tape over it and smooth it down hard, then take it for a drive....you will be amazed at the difference. then buy a new booster!

    Fraser
    Last edited by fraser130; 7th October 2010 at 05:55 PM. Reason: fix several typos - in a hurry-kids screaming-had to type quickly!

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