hows the pedal feel, have you done the test for the booster?
Hi All,
have just had all new pistons and seals put in the defender, I purchased them from Melbourne Landy spares, got a mechanic to put them in, he said they were all different sizes so used some old and some new,
now I dont no which is which but even on a dirt road I cant lock up the wheels, is there anything else that could be wrong, note all the rotors are ok, front ones new, I think I'll have to redo all the seals again
Any thoughts
thanks in advance
Scottyp![]()
hows the pedal feel, have you done the test for the booster?
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
If you pull the vacuum hose off the booster whilst the engine is running and put your finger over the end of the hose, is there a strong vacuum ? If not, your pump has died.
'95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
'85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
'76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)
1998 Defender
2008 Madigan
2010 Cape York
2012 Beadell, Bombs and other Blasts
2014 Centreing the Simpson
VKS-737 mob 7669
I've owned 2 130's (1994 and 2003) BOTH have had the boosters fail!
They are the most cheaply made bits of rubbish I have ever seen!
Not re-buildable, and made from such thin pressed steel that they fatigue crack and loose vacuum.
Try running the engine for a min, then get someone to turn it off while you have your ear next to the booster, don't touch the brakes, if you can hear any air noise, and the seal where the hose goes in is in good nick, you will probably find the booster body has cracked around the bolt holes allowing it to loose vacuum.
I found a place in Ballarat the cheapest place to get one (they post aus wide)
I'm going to be looking for a replacement from an old Holden/Ford next time mine goes.
I have an old VH-44 booster dating from the 70's that has been re-built twice for loose change, and it's still going strong.
Rant over,
Fraser
Yes, had a fatigue crack in a booster as well. Appeared as a vertical crack on the booster adjacent to where the master cylinder attaches. Check both sides. A smear of silicon over the crack got me home.
'95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
'85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
'76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)
Thanks guys, sounds like a fair bet, will check on the weekend,
Thanks again
Scottyp
Just to continue this a little, does anyone with parts knowledge know the difference between STC4322-A vs STC4322-B??
If one is better built than the other, I'd like to get that one!
Fraser
Scotty, just have a look at the main housing next to the 2 bolts that hold the master cyl in place, you may see the paint cracked a little.
If you do, brush off the flakes of paint and stick some Gaffer tape over it and smooth it down hard, then take it for a drive....you will be amazed at the difference. then buy a new booster!
Fraser
Last edited by fraser130; 7th October 2010 at 05:55 PM. Reason: fix several typos - in a hurry-kids screaming-had to type quickly!
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