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Thread: 105 degrees C too hot for comfort?

  1. #1
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    105 degrees C too hot for comfort?

    Gday All,

    Took my 02 D2 V8 to Duck Creek Rd the other day...nice cool 19c conditions outside. Climbed up to O'Reily's - as usual nice climb in high range. I noticed half way up travelling at walking pace most of the time at just above idle - 1000rpm to 1800rpm in first high (manual) that the temp got to 105 degrees...and she smelt a bit hot when I stopped. I have noticed lately that on hills and stopped she can creep up to 100 and when running back to 86-90. When I first got the scangauge II a few years ago even towing my 2 tonn boat in stop start traffic in the middle of a 40 degree summer day in Brissy it didnt go over 100.

    She has always had proper rad service and at the last service the infra red gun on the rad and no hot spots. Has always had the red coolant and changed frequently. She has however 167k on the clock since I bought her new and has the same clutch fan and thermostat and waterpump. Should I just throw a thermostat at it and see what happens or is it likely to need at least a flush including block, and possibly a new radiator and water pump?

    Cheers

    PS. I know coolant does not boil at 105 and that modern Falcons run much hotter again, but I dont recall mine ever running up that high, and others with Scanguage's on their V8's might be able to help with what their's reads.

  2. #2
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    sounds like its due for the proper cooling system service that it should have had at the 100K Km mark or 5 years whichever came first.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    Mine in traffic in recent temps runs up to 98 when stationary but drops back a couple when moving. If I head straight for the motorway without major stopping and don't raise the bay temps then it sits down around 92-3. Never had it below that running. Thats since I replaced the engine post HG issue. It's now a 4.6 so nt sure if they run any different. Running red coolant and redline waterwetter. Without the redline was running at 96-98 always.

  4. #4
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    I've seen 105 and more quite often on D2 V8s, they run very high operating temps for 'efficiency', a high pressure cooling system to help 'boiling', and if there is any pressure leaks etc it'll soon boil over. These engines are so unreliable in the head and liner department due to the small margin between normal operating range and overheating.
    A faulty airflow meter causing leanness will even make them overheat.


    The viscous fan hub, hoses, thermostat and rad etc need to be in tip top condition.


    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    sounds like its due for the proper cooling system service that it should have had at the 100K Km mark or 5 years whichever came first.
    Mate - it had that from Land Rover at 100,000k....Are you saying it should have another full flush now early?

    Cheers

    PS. I have never spared the servicing costs and duration with this girl, so thats why I am concerned about it being something more critical than a rad 'service' issue - ie stuffed radiator (which I have heard of at less k's) or water pump or clutch fan hub...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    I've seen 105 and more quite often on D2 V8s, they run very high operating temps for 'efficiency', a high pressure cooling system to help 'boiling', and if there is any pressure leaks etc it'll soon boil over. These engines are so unreliable in the head and liner department due to the small margin between normal operating range and overheating.
    A faulty airflow meter causing leanness will even make them overheat.


    The viscous fan hub, hoses, thermostat and rad etc need to be in tip top condition.


    JC
    Thanks Justin...yep efficiency gota love it...emissions and economy I suppose. I am not happy with it being that high though as it seems to have only come up that high recently. I suppose a full rodding, flush, block flush, thermostat and perhaps a new clutch fan hub might be the go.

    Cheers

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    Mate - it had that from Land Rover at 100,000k....Are you saying it should have another full flush now early?

    Cheers

    PS. I have never spared the servicing costs and duration with this girl, so thats why I am concerned about it being something more critical than a rad 'service' issue - ie stuffed radiator (which I have heard of at less k's) or water pump or clutch fan hub...
    You should flush the rad every 12 months and pull and rod it every 100,000k's.For me thats the minimal service requirements regardless of vehicle make or engine type. Pat

  8. #8
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    Im amazed that the solution for alot of these overheating issues doesnt clearly address one of the most common failure modes . That of blocking a new or used radiator by foreign material in either the original engine build or subsequent re-builds .
    The simple fitting of a "Water Filter" of the the "TEFBA" type for $60 will ensure that those problems dont exist . No engine should be without one !!!
    Wont do anything for his 105C operating temp as that probably normal for that application , but will prevent subsequent damage or at least warn you in time of the inevitable !!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    Mate - it had that from Land Rover at 100,000k....Are you saying it should have another full flush now early?

    Cheers

    PS. I have never spared the servicing costs and duration with this girl, so thats why I am concerned about it being something more critical than a rad 'service' issue - ie stuffed radiator (which I have heard of at less k's) or water pump or clutch fan hub...
    thats where I would start as flushing it properly pretty much mandates removing all the hoses and from there its not that much more work to have the radiator pulled so you can either endoscope it OR send it to a proper radiator place. Just because a landrover sales yard or even maintenance agent charged you to do it doesnt mean they did it properly or at all. Just ask me about the number of "free" services I got done on big red because I kept catching them out trying to take short cuts.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #10
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    Thanks Gents. It was Blue Ribbon that did the full flush, and I trust them to do it properly, and they told me what was involved. I will flush it again. Spoke to one of my brothers today who has serviced and modded 4wd's of all makes for many years in his own shop - including LR. He reckons whilst increase indicates that it could do with a flush he would not be upset at 105 and at 115 he would be starting to be concerned. I will do the full flush though.

    As for the TEFBA - I had one of those on every one of my vehicles since I was 17 but only stopped when I went LR. They are a fantastic idea and they DO trap crap...BUT if you get slack on it as a maintenance item it will clog up the screen and overheat. So as long as you dont mind checking it, its a FANTASTIC bit of kit.

    Cheers

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