Thread: LWB springs on SWB ??

From memory the length is the same and camber similar. The only downside I can see is that the same spring rate from more thinner leaves as on the 88 rear compared to the 109 rear. Front 109 springs petrol are the same as 88 diesel.

(The above is approximate, ignoring some variations)

John

Thanks John,
Yeah, it's the rears I'm referring to. At a glance, it looks like the two main leafs are thicker on the LWB spring. Just thinking about removing some leafs to lessen the harshness on the shorty.

Also, I've heard that you shouldn't lubricate between the leafs because it can cause the springs to crack, although I might use some fish oil, which dries, to prevent rusting.

Murray

Cant see how lubricanting would result in cracks!

You get a nice grinding paste when you stick a lubricant in there and then get dirt that sticks to the lube.

Can try removing a couple of leaves or shortning the leaves to allow a greater portion of the main springs to flex.

Definitely do fit as have done this here. The 109 ran a few different spring configs. I find the two stage set up is OK in the 88. The single progressive are a little firm so, as suggested, remove some leaves. I have never bothered lubricating the leaves here as would cause crime to stick

The only reason lubricating springs could cause cracking is if it allowed excessive flex - since this is limited by the shock absorbers and check straps, it cannot be a factor in a Series Landrover (or any other modern leaf spring vehicle - I suspect it may be a hangover from when leaf springs did not have anything to limit travel - still applies to some trucks!).

The only reason for not lubricating spring leaves is that it will hold dust and increase spring wear. Whether this is a real concern may depend on the operating conditions, and I am currently experimenting with lubricated springs, using the oil drained from the air cleaner each service applied to the springs while they are hanging free.

John

Hi JD, as a variation on what you are doing, I have seen the springs dismantled, cleaned, greased and wrapped in duct tape to exclude further dust, reported to have been a useful job.... sort of mimicing the old method of having leather covers for the springs (but I wonder how long the duct tape remained effective)

Murray - no reason you cannot - however:

SWB rears are 166 lb/in
LWB rears are either:
500 lb/in (9x 7.1 mm leaves)
400 lb/in (8x 7.1 mm leafs)
270 lb/in (10 leaf (8+2) 2 stage station wagon springs).

3x 7.1 mm leafs will give you ~166 lb/in. So if you want the same rate you will need to remove a LOT of leaves and reset.

Originally Posted by rijidij

Also, I've heard that you shouldn't lubricate between the leafs because it can cause the springs to crack, although I might use some fish oil, which dries, to prevent rusting.

Murray

Pile of BS. Oiling will reduce interleaf friction, which will make the ride smoother over small bumps (but also make the shocks work harder).

I have always oiled/greased my springs. And incidentally, for those worried about wear - my original rears were very worn after 20 years use by the army (dry), but after 15 years use by me (usually oiled) they show no wear.

When I had leaf sprung landies, I used to lubricate them with spray on motorcycle chain lube - it comes out as a foam which penetrates between the leafs and then dries to a grease like consistency.

I once lubed the rear springs of a mates 109 - it went from rock hard (no static bounce whatsoever) to being able to bounce it easily. He was amazed by the huge improvement in the ride quality.