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Thread: Common rail fuel pressure limiter

  1. #1
    Rangier Rover Guest

    Common rail fuel pressure limiter

    Not sure if any of you have done this here

    I call this bricking a common rail

    As we all know there is two main ways of getting more power out of a diesel engine... Remap the ECU or Use an interceptor module on the factory ECU.... There are two types.... One will alter the injector timing only but less ideal as pushes fuel in too late at a point.
    The other tells the ecu porkies and therefore increases the common rail pressure and modifies the map signal (For more boost) when more fuel is required.
    A total remap does both.

    A common problem with increasing fuel pressure is the fuel limiter can intermittently leak off and the engine will bug out onder full load. The torque curve goes triangular in effect.

    Had a heap of issues with my new Triton trying to push the boundaries harder with increased fuel pressure.

    This is cut and pasted from the forum on the dark side but may interest some of you as applicable to all common rails.

    This is known as a fuel pressure limiter recalibration.
    Can usually be done one of two ways. Blocking the banjo bolt on the return side or fitting a small disc between the fuel limiter and the common rail. The second method works best on the trytoo.

    This concept was bought to my attention by Chip IT.... The mob I got the DPS215 module from.

    snip....
    OK, here goes.... I'm not good at this so hope it makes sense


    In stages but not exact....
    Removed the battery, egr pipe, undone the dip stick and a few brackets etc... no need to completely remove it all. Just the battery and EGR pipe. The rest will move out of the way. I took the intake off to make pics easier.


    Then remove the banjo bolt fron the end of the limiter 14mm.... Take care of the copper washers as we need to use them again.
    I had already removed the bold before the pic... Getting too exited!


    Now the scary bit... unfortunately the fuel return pipe will have to be carefully bent away enough to squeeze a good quality 19mm ring spanner over the limiter.. This sucker is very tight! Once you manage to crack it it will back out easily. I stood on a crate and used a larger spanner as a lever. Was lucky it was in the right spot to do this. A good upward yank would do the job otherwise. I just like my knuckles the way they are



    Now is the time to clean any fuel off the limiter and super glue the disc on so stays put during assembly.

    Just a small dob will do it.... Then make sure the flat/smooth side goes towards the limiter and lines up nicely.



    Wile the glue cures we need to get the copper back up washer out of the common rail. Be gentle as it will come out easily with the right knack..... Just have to hold your tongue the right way and out she comes..

    If you find it difficult, use a small mirror, phone cam etc to study it then have a go. I found a small pick worked nicely.








    Now we are ready to fit the limiter and disc assembly back in. Use a magnet to hold things in place if your likely to drop things from here on.

    Gently pick up the tread and make sure its correct before applying brute force. The limiter will go in quite easily then tack up against the alloy disc. Now we have to crank it up crack tight so it seals. Red in the face is close.

    Now carefully flex the return line assy back and refit the banjo bolt with its original copper seals. Take extra care not to cross thread this bolt as the fitting may be slightly twisted. Once bottomed out only take it a little further as will shear off if overdone.

    Refit the dip stick tube, EGR pipe and any brackets. Make sure everything is well secured and no pipes, hoses or wires are lose, may rub or to close to the EGR pipe etc.

    Then refit the battery and clamp it down.

    Purge the Manuel fuel lift pump (Found in the left back corner of the engine bay) till it firms up.

    The engine should fire up within 30 seconds of there about. The rail will burp the air out via the injectors.

    Assuming you have a chip fitted.... tune the truck till your content and then excite your self!
    Has made a huge change to mine.


  2. #2
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    Jesus. That's like surgery.

    The mitsubishi people seem to have had a lot of trouble with chipping. I can't understand why it's necessary to even chip the engines. The 4M41 is a rocket as it is - maybe I'm a blue rinse needing 300Tdi owner, maybe that perception will change when my 12H-T "4-pot slaughterer" is finished, but I can't say I've ever felt them lacking.

  3. #3
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    thanks for that summary Tony - very interesting....

    geez but, you're a game man, doing that with a new motor car

  4. #4
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    Hi Tony
    Any idea how much extra HP/Tourque you are getting out of the Trytoo????
    TD5 isnt a common rail,it has camshaft driven "Unit Injectors" Not familiar with the PEWma motors.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
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  5. #5
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    puma is common rail, however I suggest NOT doing this mod until all your other options are exhausted.

    This is the diesels version of blanking off the return line on the fuel injection rail for a petrol engine. The same shortfalls apply but the diesel system should deal with it for longer than the petrol.

    ALSO

    be very careful when setting up for this mod you will be depressurizing the HP fuel line and exposing it, there exists the potential for HP diesel to spray when you open the fitting (minimal risk the battery should be disconnected and the pump long stopped so it should only be residual pressure) exposing the HP rail to contamination (med to high risk) and the system will need bleeding to restart (guaranteed risk)

    This also works for tweaking up the crack speed on older style pump driven injectors but has its own drawbacks.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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  6. #6
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy View Post
    Hi Tony
    Any idea how much extra HP/Tourque you are getting out of the Trytoo????
    TD5 isnt a common rail,it has camshaft driven "Unit Injectors" Not familiar with the PEWma motors.
    Andrew
    On the dyno over 30% more power and 40% more torque. Exhaust upgrade on its way.... We should then see over 180hp and well over 600mn. I may have to change to an EVO 9 intercooler to see these numbers.

    Also getting an EGT alarm wired to the chip so reduces fuel+boost if flies up over the safe threshold. (I can also isolate the chip ant any time by earth switching.)
    If the chip should ever fail... Its fails to safe... factory.
    Can change tunes in seconds with a laptop.

    On the rail limiter recalibration.... Very common mod on the new D40s, they just wont run increased fuel pressure with out. A bolt does them though.
    I had to brick mine as the limiter became fragile over time. The fuel pressure is controled at the pump and it bypasses the excess.
    Should the pump decide to ramp up for some reason is the only risk... the pipe to the rail would spring a leak.
    Thing is... most things fail to safe.. eg if a sensor fails it will go limpy.

  7. #7
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    As a standard diesel they are very respectable,yours would be quite a monster!!!
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

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