A Puma oil on handbrake observation

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

JC, I fixed the issue early on with the nylocs coming loose by using aircraft 'K' Nuts (all metal, self locking, reduced hex nuts)

Never needed touching in nine years now.

Might be a bit OTT but I had a packet of new ones left over (100 ??) from another lifetime. :D

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Hi Rick, actually I never have them come loose when I do them up. OR the big output flange nuts, either. I would say someone during manufacturing hasn't set the torque wrench up properly...:mad: Never had this issue with early LT230 equipped Landies...The odd D2 but very rare still.

JC

As mentioned in another thread, my 2010 Puma 110 wagon after 11000km has just started leaking. Will be in to get fixed along with first service.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

JC, I fixed the issue early on with the nylocs coming loose by using aircraft 'K' Nuts (all metal, self locking, reduced hex nuts)

Never needed touching in nine years now.

Might be a bit OTT but I had a packet of new ones left over (100 ??) from another lifetime. :D

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a bit??
4 pound each?

and anyway, how do they actually work?
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/im...ngsl/k-nut.jpg

4 quid is a touch OTT, shouldn't be anything like that here, particularly if one has contacts at Qantas or the RAAF :angel:

They are infinitely re-usable, the top couple of threads are slightly out of round/distorted and they just never lose grip. (but will clean the threads up on a bolt :D)

Racers love em as they are so light, I have a bag of cad plated versions and moly (??) coated versions in 3/8 (or is 5/16 ?) but being UNF you cant use them on a Landy except a few small spots.

so its just a high tech cone nut?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by justinc

Hi Justin, Its Justin:D

yes, shaft off, nut and washer off, discard useless felt washer under the washer, then clean up, and apply a good silicone type sealant like Wurth 250, and refit in reverse order. The flange nut needs to be at least 100Nm, not sure off the top of my head the actual torque figure, I'll take a look at RAVE tomorrow.

JC

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Hi Justin, timely thread!
I have an oil leak from the transmission brake drum and was about to buy the rear t/case oil seal.
Should I hold off and have a look at the nut and fibre washer first or just replace it anyway while everything is off
(02 td5 Xtreme)

Cheers,
Paul.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by harro

Hi Justin, timely thread!
I have an oil leak from the transmission brake drum and was about to buy the rear t/case oil seal.
Should I hold off and have a look at the nut and fibre washer first or just replace it anyway while everything is off
(02 td5 Xtreme)

Cheers,
Paul.

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Paul, yes buy the seal and replace if you have it all apart. Sometimes, even if the leak is caused by the nut being loose, the action of the flange moving around on the splines can cause early seal failure/ seal lip wear. You may find if the seal wasn't leaking before you tighten the main flange nut, it may leak after you put it back together...also, ensure the seal surface on the flange is OK, sometimes it is best to fit a new flange in 'kit' form, comes with seal and new locknut.

JC

Quote:

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Originally Posted by justinc

Paul, yes buy the seal and replace if you have it all apart. Sometimes, even if the leak is caused by the nut being loose, the action of the flange moving around on the splines can cause early seal failure/ seal lip wear. You may find if the seal wasn't leaking before you tighten the main flange nut, it may leak after you put it back together...also, ensure the seal surface on the flange is OK, sometimes it is best to fit a new flange in 'kit' form, comes with seal and new locknut.

JC

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Thanks Justin,
your contributions are invaluable!
I thought that would be the way to go but good to have knowledgeable advice.

Cheers,
Paul.