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Thread: Auto Trans Questions

  1. #1
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    Auto Trans Questions

    Im wanting to better understand the operation of the ZF4HP22 in my 1990 Rangie.
    After engine rebuild, reco torque converter, new unis and rebalanced drive shafts I have a vibration in the driveline, more pronounced at lower speeds when cold and seems to spin itself out above 80km/hr.
    Transmission has had full flush out of cooling pipes and oil cooler, new filter screen and refill with Castrol Transmax.
    Upshifts are all smooth, positive and quick. Downshifts imperceptible except occasional clunk into 1st in stop/start driving.
    Goes into 4th overdrive about 85km/hr.. Can't tell when or if direct drive clutch engages.

    What are the speed/throttle position upshift points?
    Does the direct drive clutch engage at the same time as 4th? If not when should it engage? How much do revs drop with direct drive clutch engagement?
    Does shortening the downshift cable raise or lower the downshift points and what do people set it to - the 1mm gap to the crimp recommended?
    What happens if the transmission is overfilled, besides pumping out oil? I overfilled by two litres on initial fill in my rush to avoid the pump running dry on initial start up, removed one litre and then realised the dipstick measure has to be read cold.

    Apologies for so many questions

  2. #2
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    I'll try a few answers

    Has the front drive shaft been assembled with the correct offset between the unis? I don't know how much the offset should be but it's noticeable.

    Driving a RRC of this era I usually feel the 4th upshift at around 60km/h at light throttle. The lock-up at 85 km/h is distinct under load and should drop your revs a few 100's of RPM. Going up an incline with steady throttle the torque drop on lock-up may mean the speed dropping below unlock speed and cycling up and down. So you need to apply a bit more throttle to maintain 85+ km/h.

    Overfilling may lead to foaming the fluid and overheating. But you would notice the trans performing badly if this happened.

  3. #3
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    Does shortening the downshift cable raise or lower the downshift points and what do people set it to - the 1mm gap to the crimp recommended?
    What happens if the transmission is overfilled, besides pumping out oil? I overfilled by two litres on initial fill in my rush to avoid the pump running dry on initial start up, removed one litre and then realised the dipstick measure has to be read cold.
    Shortening the kickdown cable ie making the gap of 1MM bigger will increase shift point speeds and shift pressure ie sharper shifts. I prefer ashorter cable with a standard engine to give higher points. Start at say 2MM and evaluate it.

    have never wildly overfilled so cannot help there.
    Regards Philip A

  4. #4
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    Re bee utey's suggestion. I think Classic and D1 front drive shaft angles are on the limit at transfer end for phasing before going up to double uni's (like the D2) so if not phased this will be a problem and quite common as job left to the apprentice or work not done in LR shop. Put the two ends out of phase by 22 1/2 degrees or 1 1/2 hours ie uni swivels on one end are lined up at 12/6 and 9/3 o'clock the other are at 4.30/10.30 and 1.30/7.30 o'clock.

  5. #5
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    Have you checked that the viscous coupling in the Transfer case isn't siezed? Are you runing EXACTLY the same diameter tyres all round? Tyre pressures?

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Have you checked that the viscous coupling in the Transfer case isn't siezed? Are you runing EXACTLY the same diameter tyres all round? Tyre pressures?

    JC
    Hi Justin,
    The tyres are all the same - still running Michelin Synchrones!
    I changed the transfer case oil - refilled with Castrol Transmax.
    How do you check if the viscous coupling is seized?
    Thanks,
    Aaron

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