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Thread: 300tdi Misfire

  1. #1
    powercel Guest

    Question 300tdi Misfire

    Hi guys and gals,

    This is my first post and I'm hoping someone can help me with a problem. First of all I have a 96 300tdi Disco, new head 6 months ago, timing belt done 15000km ago. New 2.5" exhaust a few weeks ago and new K&N Air Filter at the same time. Was running perfectly

    I ran my tank dry on the way to the servo about a week ago, managed to get to the pump but it had sucked in a little air, started ok with the tank topped up though and ran fine for a couple of days. Now it has a misfire, not noticable when you first start it and it idles perfectly but when I drive it it seems a little down on power, and after a minute or so it loses a lot of power and misfires, sounds like a single cylinder. It gets quite lumpy but if i let it idle for 10 secs or so it clears up again. Its particularly bad on the highway as its constantly under load and it can buck and shunt around a bit as it misses. If i drop from 5th to 4th gear and gun it it seems to clear up a bit but not all the way. It does seem to smoke more when its misfiring aswell and it misses worst around 1500-2000 rpm.

    So far I have:
    -Adjusted tappets
    -Replaced fuel filter
    -Cleaned out sedimenter
    -Replaced lift pump
    -Replaced the fuel lines from the lift pump to the filter and from the filter to the injection pump
    -Used compressed air to blow through the feed and return lines from the engine bay to the fuel tank
    -Visual check of the injectors, all looked sooty but not damaged
    -Removed fuel sender unit from fuel tank and checked it out. There is wear on the metal tube from the spring loaded mechanism moving back and forth but it doesn't go through the tube.
    -I just topped up the tank again to check if it was due to fuel being lower in tank (1/2) but its full now and still doing the same thing

    I'm guessing it has to be something to do with fuel supply, but there is a light tappety noise coming from the engine somewhere. If i take the oil cap off some smoke comes out of the engine while its idling. Stationary it will rev all the way till the governor kicks in and has no noticeable miss Has anyone had this same thing happen to them, I'm tearing my hair out here

  2. #2
    powercel Guest

    Figured it out

    Ok, so I probably should have had my eyes open better when I adjusted the tappets. I decided to open her back up to keep checking everythung and I noticed that one of the valve spring retainers was blacker than all the rest so I wiped them all off and low and behold one was caked with burnt oil residue while the others wiped clean. Pressing with mild finger pressure on this valve is enough to depress the valve into the cylinder and open it as it were. I'm guessing this is my problem and its just coincidental that I ran out of fuel 2 days earlier. Lesson learnt, never assume anything. Guess I'll be taking the head off and get it over to Shane at Techno Brittish for hopefully warranty repair since it came with valves installed about 15,000km ago.

  3. #3
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    I was going to suggest a broken valve spring but thought, naah, don't know nuffin about diesels. Can you replace the valve spring in situ? Used to do this all the time on V8's with compressed air. Some cast iron engines with valve seat recession I would fit a washer under the spring to raise the tension, enables a bloke to keep going until he could afford a head job.

    Just make a lever to depress the valve retainer with the engine at TDC, see how far the valve goes down.

  4. #4
    powercel Guest
    How much chance is there that it's done damage to the valve, guide or seat? I would sure love to just change the spring and be done with it but I don't want any dramas in the future so if I've gotta yank the head and fix it I'd rather do it now.

  5. #5
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    Valve seat damage will preclude you having compression at idle like you say. Valve guide damage would appear in excessive side movement with the spring off. Valve height can be compared with a neighbouring valve. Did you have to adjust the offending valve by a large amount when you did clearances?

  6. #6
    powercel Guest
    The adjustment seemed identical to the others so I can only hope I guess. Might try changing the spring tonight and see how far it gets me. Not sure if it's just due to the spring being weak but it felt quite sloppy in the guide. I'll check it out tonight.

  7. #7
    powercel Guest
    Just thought I'd post a final resolution for future searches on the topic. I took the head in for warranty and it was promptly returned with the excuse "check your oil pump and head gasket, there was no oil supply to the head". This of course was complete rubbish, the head was drowning in oil when i checked it. I took the head to U.M.R engines in slacks creek and had him check it out. All of the valve guides are shot, 4 of the 8 valves are worn on the stems, all the seals are gone due to combustion gasses passing the valves and burning them, and all of the rocker arms were worn.
    Bottom line is a complete head repair, costing $700 approx, many thanks to FWD Motors for knocking the parts bill way way down. Lindsay from U.M.R said he had not seen a head in such poor disrepair in such a short service life, and could only put it down to wear in the rocker gear pushing sideways on the valves quickly destroying the guides and leading to ultimate failure.
    So, moral of the story, always replace the $25ea rocker arms when doing a head, it would have been much much cheaper than what happened to me.

  8. #8
    Davey1000 Guest

    300TDi engine valves

    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    I was going to suggest a broken valve spring but thought, naah, don't know nuffin about diesels. Can you replace the valve spring in situ? Used to do this all the time on V8's with compressed air. Some cast iron engines with valve seat recession I would fit a washer under the spring to raise the tension, enables a bloke to keep going until he could afford a head job.

    Just make a lever to depress the valve retainer with the engine at TDC, see how far the valve goes down.
    $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

    The valves are very tough. I know because a real dog of a Discovery 300TDi that I bought had valve imprints in all of the pistons. Presumably the previous owners had got a clown to replace the timing belt! Down in the sump there were lots of broken valve-caps. I made a pretty good job of repairing the engine and fitted new standard pistons after doing a ridge-ream and hone. A new made in South Africa head was fitted as well as a new radiator and timing belt kit. After all that work it pulled like a train but the real bummer happened a few months later at the annual MOT inspection.

    "OH I DON'T LIKE THESE, THEY RUST A LOT!" was the MOT testers opening gambit. The tester and his assistant then hammered my truck with a proper 16 oz hammer, NOT the VOSA approved "toffee hammer" and they moaned about rust and the previous owners bad welding. Now I'd bought a boat on eBay and it was stuck in what I call "Shylocks Marina" (they are very expensive and use the same MO as greedy money-grabbing dockers) With the benefit of hindsight I should have chanced the fine and removed the boat with my truck with no MOT. (Brakes, lights, steering, horn, tyres, seat-belts and emissions were all OK) Now I did buy a top class MIG welder to fix it but with the coldest winter and spring for fifty years the machine is still in its box!

    Next a Mercedes 300 Touring Diesel Estate was bought (legal towing capacity about two tons) It was spares-or-repair with the declared fault of the alternator not charging. The alternator only took a few minutes to fix as on those old Bosch alternators the carbon brushes and the voltage regulator are a single unit that is held in with two screws. The car was driven home which was 130 miles but I did not find the car a pleasure to drive as my left leg had nothing to do! Later it was found that coolant was missing from the header tank yet there had been no overheating on the journey home. The car had been parked and had not been used since that one trip. Much later it was noted that the oil level was now an inch and a half above the "High" mark on the dipstick. Evidently the coolant is now in the sump so its now dead car #2.

    A bit of rust or bad welding can seriously harm ones finances over here. The other aspect is that test stations like to give out a high percentage of failures, well over 50%. One can surmise that they worry that if they pass too many cars the first time, VOSA will come knocking and their testers licence might be cancelled.

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