Thread: Swivel Preload Adjustment

I am suffering the death wobbles in my 98 Discovery and i am beginning too think it is the Swivel Preload which needs adjusting so after some quick searching online i found this wonderful link and thought it would be best shared with you guys!

Land Rover Forum

Now i have just a couple questions;

The reasons i believe this too be the problem is my steering suffers from bump steer, there is play in the steering, And death wobbles at varying speeds and steering lock positions as well as the left swivel seal leaking... Do these characteristics register the same problem in your mind?

Also i see i have to remove shims from the top of the assembly and there is talk of a lower pin as well... will i need to do anything with the lower Pin?

Lastly this may seem a dumb question but then one other bugger wondering can search and not have to humiliate his/her self... will i have to do both sides and if so must then be of identical resistance?

Thanks in advance guys for your help and i hope this link helps a few others out!

James.

Having been through this with my Disco, there are more things to do than just the swivel preload. The DW, bump steer etc I found to be more shock absorber and panhard rod related. But, having said that, you probably need to do the swivels anyway.

1. Swivels - what that tutorial doesn't say is that the top bolts are hard to get to because of the brake hose. You may have to release the clip holding the flexible hose so you can get the socket in there; and when you do there will be a lot of oil gush out of the bottom of the swivel seal ( It's sorta normal - doesn't indicate that the seal is U/S - and it happens even if you open the drain plug too). Usually, if you take the thin shims out and leave the thick shim, it roughly gives a decent preload. Fish scales are the preferred el-cheapo measuring device, and yes you have to do both swivels. You'll find that both sides will end up having the same amount of shim removed, and end up being the same(ish) measurement with the fish scales. Since you are not removing the swivel, the bottom pins stay put.

2. Panhard rod and steering box mounts - spanner check to make sure they're tight - big screwdriver to check bushes.

3. Leaking left seal - Because we drive on the LHS of the road, the L seal seems to suffer more from buildup of diff oil that gets past the axle seal. After you do attack the shims, (and have opened up the drain plug or clean out the CV's completely), use grease in the CV instead of oil. That should keep it happy. You can either mix up your own CV grease ( 50% Moreys oil stabiliser 50% axle grease) , buy some grade 0, or do the LR one shot stuff. Don't forget to clean the front axle breather whilst you're there.

4. Rotate tyres - swap the fronts & rears - or get the fronts checked for balance and buckling (tyre place will spin them up if it's not busy) If the shocks are on the way out, they can cause the tyres to wear oddly, and increase the occasions when DW happen.

5. Check joints - If you have play in the steering, then odds on a ball joint needs replacing. Best to get an assistant to do the steering wheel twisting rather than anything you can do by yourself.

6. Check the drop arm - It can get loose.

I know it's a lot of stuff to look at, but the DW and other stuff is a result of cumulative wear on the steering gear - not just one thing.