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Thread: VNT turbo control

  1. #11
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    If you get it wrong and are to slow to open the vanes whilst the turbo is accelerating you may risk over boosting your engine.

    I think there will be more to setting this up than meets the eye, it sounds like a fairly straight forward mod, but get it wrong and you maybe in trouble.

    Setting it up on a test bed with the turbo spinning is the only real way, open the vanes up to fast and you will bog the turbine down, to slow and you may over boost, having the diaphram react to boost pressure is one thing but you also need the correct spring on the other side to allow it to react at the right rate.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    Thanks Murray.
    Don't suppose you've got the P/N of that actuator do you? Might be a good place to start.

    Steve
    You seem to be sorting things out, but I hope this helps anyway. I'm not sure if these are P/N's.................




    My actuator hose is plumbed straight into the compressor outlet.............



    Cheers, Murray
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab


  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cols110 View Post
    If you get it wrong and are to slow to open the vanes whilst the turbo is accelerating you may risk over boosting your engine.

    I think there will be more to setting this up than meets the eye, it sounds like a fairly straight forward mod, but get it wrong and you maybe in trouble.

    Setting it up on a test bed with the turbo spinning is the only real way, open the vanes up to fast and you will bog the turbine down, to slow and you may over boost, having the diaphram react to boost pressure is one thing but you also need the correct spring on the other side to allow it to react at the right rate.
    I may be wrong, but I dont think there's a whole lot of risk in doing this.

    If I can get it set up on the bench so that the vanes are on the minimum stop at idle and fully open at say 10psi (for a start) then I think the only way to overboost it would be to have too much fuel.
    As long as it reacts reasonably quickly to increase in boost (and I can test this on the bench) I dont think I can get into too much trouble.

    Whether its efficient and works to the full potential of the turbo is a different matter...

    First step is to get it working on the bench.

    Steve

  4. #14
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    It's pretty hard to kill an engine with boost alone. For a start you need enough fuel to create the boost, with unmolested fuel settings you're only going to get a few psi more than your previous turbo and that won't hurt anything.

    Just start gently and do it on quiet roads so you don't run into anyone while watching the boost gauge.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    It's pretty hard to kill an engine with boost alone. For a start you need enough fuel to create the boost, with unmolested fuel settings you're only going to get a few psi more than your previous turbo and that won't hurt anything.

    Just start gently and do it on quiet roads so you don't run into anyone while watching the boost gauge.
    this is my biggest fear, Dougal

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by rijidij View Post
    You seem to be sorting things out, but I hope this helps anyway. I'm not sure if these are P/N's.................



    Cheers, Murray
    Thanks Murray - the 10364-06 number corresponds to a 18psi Turbotechnics actuator.
    Actuator T2

    I'd be interested to know how much travel it has, as their website is saying 9.4mm lift but I'm sure the vacuum actuator currently on mine has more than that (could be wrong as I haven't actually measured it).

    Steve

  7. #17
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    I'm playing today, been driving with the nozzle on the stop, seems to make 23psi then drop down

    Well, now just after a quick spin with the actuator hooked up, it hits overrange 30psi and EGT's are sky rocketing

    But, I'm thinking it has the extra boost to burn the fuel...maybe....where as with the vain wired what EGT's would max 650* on the flat, now I'm flickering 700* and backing off

    Hmmm, back to the road

  8. #18
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    Which stop have you had it wired against Matt?
    The smallest nozzle stop on the outside of the turbine housing, or against the fully open internal stop?

    Steve

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    Which stop have you had it wired against Matt?
    The smallest nozzle stop on the outside of the turbine housing, or against the fully open internal stop?

    Steve
    Had it wired shut, small size

    It won't make any boost when open, needs to start shut, spool up, then change over

    I've been tweaking, I'm about 5 turns out, making 29psi max, averageing 26 when flat, so seema good, have the change over happening well, not sure ar what psi, so its good enough for dyno time

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    Had it wired shut, small size

    It won't make any boost when open, needs to start shut, spool up, then change over

    I've been tweaking, I'm about 5 turns out, making 29psi max, averageing 26 when flat, so seema good, have the change over happening well, not sure ar what psi, so its good enough for dyno time
    Exciting stuff.
    IIRC - you've posted in the past that 5 turns made your EGT's go berserk.
    Seems like the better intercooler and VNT has made a BIG difference then....

    Steve

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