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Thread: Replacing rubber coupling between rear diff and prop shaft

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    Replacing rubber coupling between rear diff and prop shaft

    Hi guys,

    I have to change the SGF Rubber coupling between the rear prop and diff. I have one which was part of the sale of the vehicle, but the seller never got arround to changing it. The one on there has a lot of cracking.

    My question is this - according to the RAVE manual I should drop the whole cam shaft, is the really required, or can I just drop the end with the rubber coupling and leave the gear box end attached?

    Also, how much would a decent torque wrench cost, I aint got one! lol

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    There's a centreing pin sticking out of the diff that goes into the propshaft so you might have to drop the front end first.
    Scott

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    85 county is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    LOL its easy, jack the back up as high as you can, let the rear dif hang down as much as you can. IE lift the body.

    if its a bit tight just use a pinch bar to lever it over the centering pin.

    5 minute job after jacking

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    LOL!! So now I have to buy a high lift jack, a pinch bar And a torque wrench

    I wish I had shipped all my tools from the UK when I came out, just bringing the swiss army knife hasn't helped much!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattskii View Post
    according to the RAVE manual I should drop the whole cam shaft, is the really required, or can I just drop the end with the rubber coupling



    I hope not!
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
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    Some of these suggestions seem really odd including the camshaft one!!

    Rubber coupling on the rear shaft right??

    Undo 3 bolts on the pinion side and 3 bolts on the shaft side and then just push the drive shaft towards the Transfer. There is more than enough movement on the splines to cope with this.

    You can now change your coupling. The spiggot stays in the Pinion drive.

    Now there is a bush in the end of the drive shaft that would benefit from a change and if you do this you will find it esier to remove the shaft completely.

    No high lifting required.

    cheers

  7. #7
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    IIRC there is a right and wrong way to orientate them too.
    Pretty sure you want to have it so that the drive force is transferred in compression through the thicker rubber blocks.

    I torque most things but never bothered doing it with those bolts (may have been access issues initially). Normal length spanners/sockets and tight as I could lying on my back under the car has worked fine so far for me.

    Personally, I'd drop the whole shaft out and check the front universal while you're there.

    SteveG

  8. #8
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    MatSkii - take a look at this clip which might be useful.

    Note at about 2:15 - an important bit about the spigot being replaced.

    YouTube - trailerfitter's Channel


    HTH
    David

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    85 county is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    Quote Originally Posted by strangy View Post
    . There is more than enough movement on the splines to cope with this.

    cheers
    AHHH not always

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