hmmm...
guess not eh?
I'll just have to work away at it ....
OK, I hope there's someone here who has done this.
I need to take the two roof skins of a 130 Dc roof apart (this question would also also apply to 110 and I would assume that it would apply to 90 roofs as well.
I have drilled all the spot welds clear (7mm), also the 2 side rivets, and I've cut the gutter goop from around the rear section.
The two skins are now held by the glue in the rebated section across the roof.
Has anybody succesfully seperated along this glue or does anyone have any suggestions on how to do it ?
- preferably without the use of too much heat as I'd like to preserve the paint finish if possible
Last edited by 87County; 20th January 2011 at 06:49 PM. Reason: grammar!
hmmm...
guess not eh?
I'll just have to work away at it ....
In no way does this help but you seem desperate for a response
When a 250kg steel portal frame deposited itself on the roof of my 130 I had to "panel beat" the roof back to vaguely normal. The seam you talk of was indeed mostly held together with sealant. The rivets mostly held on impact (had to replace a few) but the sealent had come away. Once I "straightened" the roof out I had to run a bead of sika to reseal the roof.
I can suggest that although a 200kg steel portal will seperate the two sections, it will also require new windscreen frame and glass replacement. Not recommended.
The good news is though, once you put it all back together and sika up the gaps it will only leak moderately as opposed to enormously.
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
thanks r/rescue -
I'm glad I wasn't faced with the job that you had....
since posting, I've been working a modified putty knife between the two skins from the underside with some success, it cuts through the existing glue/sealant fairly easily
not showing any damage to the skins so far (fingers crossed)
You could try a bit of metho with the putty knife for lube and slight softening action. Shouldnt upset the paint...
White Marine Sikaflex worked well when I put mine all back together "roughly" again. I even used it to fill in the three holes from the portal cleats - was all too much hassle welding in a patch when sika just glues the hole right up.
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Turps worked well with the putty knife...
In case anyone's interested , here are the pics of the seperated skins
... as you can see - liberal use of turps helped
lots of black goop to clean up !
and if you need to carry out this task there is a hidden spotweld in the gutter adjacent to the pop river on each side where the roof kin is folded across the gutter
- this was rather time consuming - (it took a while to identify what was holding them together)
![]()
So do tell,
you are seperating to extend the roof or shrink it?
Your roof looks more pristine than mine did before I parked a 200x100 RHS portal with cleats through it! No wonder you wanted to preserve the paint.
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
shrinking it....by 579mm
the project: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...b-project.html
... has unfortunately been in abeyance due to visits to Cape York and other places...
bullbar & winch to be added shortly
Series Landy Rescue
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'51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles
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