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No - I wouldn't do that. You can't be sure you won't damage the glues used to bind the filter material to the cage and bind the fibres of the outer layer to each other.Quote:
Originally Posted by feraldisco
I have described how best to clean them in another thread.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...ml#post1429169
(there is a link to this in the good oil).
thanks, but is there really no solvent that will remove the oil but not affect glue/fibres - what about detergents?
Give it a try and let us know how you go. Replacement filter is about $70
The method I have described will return it to the equivalent of ~10-50 hrs use if you do it properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by feraldisco
Using solvents or detergent - you won't be able to remove all the detergent/water/solvent from your filter and you will get oil contamination if you have a recirc. system.
But by all means - give it a try.
Metho maybe, but I'd start it on plain kero first, blow out with compressed air as Ben says, then soak for 10-15 minutes in metho and one more good long blow out to dry it off.
I'm going to try reverse flowing my Provent. I don't have the return plumbed in yet and so I have no common link to the engine other than the two hoses.
I'm going to practice some old filtration technique I used to use along the lines of a hydrocyclone filter and get the vapour swirling around the main filter body. This tends to increase the dropout of the mist and uses the larger outer surface area of the filter.
Eventually I'll plumb it back to the sump but will put a small ball valve in and just manually drain it every now and again.
And the filter element is GF Nylon with epoxy binder so petroleum solvents are fine from a materials point of view.
Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...