fitted ARP studs to my 3.9 V8 today.

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Originally Posted by clubagreenie

I've used both std studs for the rover and had custom studs made by ARP for different applications and regardless of the lube they note to run a pre stretch. The initial torque cycling is to pre stretch the studs rather than build up the final tension. A better lube will reduce the friction and lessen the differences in final tension.

So I wouldn't eliminate the pre torque sequence, but the final sequence will be a better result with their lube.

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To be honest, I've never thought about bolt/nut torque before. I've simply read the manual, and done it up to what it says.

Looking into the subject a little more in depth, has been like opening Pandora's box. I never knew there was so much involved. I too have read about "pre-stretching". But if you read about conrod bolts/nuts, and the absolute best way of torquing them, you need to buy a bolt stretch gauge and measure stretch, rather than torque. My reading indicated that if a bolt loses it's elasticity by remaining longer than the original relaxed length, after a nut has been released, then it needs to be replaced....so this has put a spanner in the works regarding my understanding of pre-stretching.
I haven't bought new conrod bolts and nuts, because I was planning to use the old ones....but now I'm not so sure.

Maybe research is over-rated. When my motor is finally back together, I'm going to have more doubts, and be more nervous when turning the key than ever before.....especially as this is my first ground up Rover v8 re-build. :-)

Cheers
Andre

The trouble with the stretch gauge is it relies on access to both ends (like a rod bolt has) and gauging stretch in a stud involves pre stretching, then removing and measuring, comparing to chart and reinstalling and hoping that the torque is correct.

I have always had a cheap pair of head gaskets to use (single use) when pre stretching studs. In other words, loose assemble both sides with cheap gaskets and go through proceedure. Remove and reassemble with good gaskets and reassemble.

Just don't what I've seen done when studding cross bolts. Preinstalling the cross studs. Watched someone go crazy trying to work out how to fit the bearing cap in with studs sticking out.

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

I have been stripping my 3.9V8 to fit an almost new pair of heads with ARP studs and you beaut head gaskets recommended by TRS.

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hi philip,

i'm looking at taking my heads off for a closer inspection and note that the ARP studs seem to be the highly recommended option. may i ask where you sourced them from? (or anyone else for that matter who has done this recently )shall also be on to TRS for the gaskets.

thanks,
brett.

i'm hoping someone in australia has them in stock.

Rocket Industries (sydmey)are the major dealers, but expensive and don't want to know if it isn't chev or ford. Fabre (syd also) are very good and the cheapest I found. TRS on adelaide also sell them.

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i'm hoping someone in australia has them in stock.

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I bought mine at TRS after being let down by a USA internet seller.
Regards Philip A

I got mine from the US for about $60 less than a local retailer...and that was including shipping. They took a week to get here.

As Philip has indicated though...there is always a risk involved.

Cheers
Andre

Hi Philip,

did you install the studs with the block in the car, or was the engine removed?

As i need to pull the heads off my V8, this seems like a good thing to do while the heads are off.

Cheers

Steve

got mine in melbourne at this place

VPW Performance Mailorder

Part no 124-4003

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Originally Posted by rpo83

Hi Philip,

did you install the studs with the block in the car, or was the engine removed?

As i need to pull the heads off my V8, this seems like a good thing to do while the heads are off.

Cheers

Steve

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I repaired a head on a vehicle with ARP head studs a few months ago. I couldn't lift the head off, there was too much interference in the bolt holes. As the studs are little more than finger tight it was actually easiest to remove all the studs, then to refit the head on two studs only and install the rest with a ball-ended allen key. No trouble at all.

Mainly the back couple of studs are too high to allow the head to come off without interference with the firewall.