fitted ARP studs to my 3.9 V8 today.

I ordered my head and main cap ARP Studs from the US and had no issue, but that may just be luck.
I also bought some ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener lubricant, which I am now a big fan of. A search for reviews on Google returns some interesting info.

My experience with ARP studs began with a question sent to a respected UK engine builder, who gave his opinion that Head nut torque with ARP studs should be 65-70 lbft on Rover V8's, because in his experience, anything around 75lbft and above is danger territory for stripping threads. He emphesised it was only his opinion and experience, and you know what they say about opinions.
He also said that with main cap studs, 65 lbft was his choice.

I ended up following his advice for the heads, but torqued the main caps up a lot tighter due to having the main bearing bores measured at the higher torque. The first ting that happened, was that the rear main seal kept "popping" out. So I backed off the torque on all nuts to a point that the rear main seal stayed put.
I put the motor together, and it ran well....for 400 kms. I then needed to strip the motor back to bare block due to a top hat liner install error. To the shops credit, they admitted it was the first top hat liner install they had done, researched the problem, learnt from the mistake, and fixed everything at absolutely no cost to me other than time. Turner engineering in the UK (top hat liner supplier) were also very helpful during this time. Anyway, the point to all this info, is that I pulled the rear main caps, and there was significant uneven wear on the bearings after only 400kms, and there was copious amounts of oil between the bearings and block. Needless to say I followed the 65lbft advice on the second assembly, and so far so good at 3000km.
The alternative would have been to line bore the main bearing journals at a specified torque, but the original bearings came out looking good, so I stuck with the status quo. I came very close to putting the original main cap bolts in, because I have read that even at the same torque as bolts, studs and nuts provide a greater clamping force.

Hope this helps in some way with decision making.

Cheers
Andre

Out of interest, what was the installation error with the liners? I'd been referred to these guys who shall remain nameless on the basis that they'd always done the right thing by the "referee" in the past and they appeared to know the drill with the fitment of flanged liners. However, given their attitude so far, I'm left thinking I'm best off taking absolutely nothing for granted.

When the chilled liners are dropped into the heated block, they quickly warm up, and the thicker material at the top expands longitudinally. The liners need to be either clamped down during cooling, so that they remain on the machined step in the block, or they need to be pressed home afterward......in this case the interference fit can't be so tight that pressing the liner home is not possible. To ensure the liners are all the way home on the step, the shop should machine the step to be slightly LESS deep, than the height of the flange. Then after cooling they can measure how much of the flange is sticking out and do the maths. Decking the block is normal part of the process, and this is when the flange is machine level to the block.

My liners had an 8 thou gap under them after cooling (obviously not known at the time), and the head gaskets pushed them home at operating temperature, transferring the gap to the top. I blew all eight cylinders within seconds of each other.

Definitely a learning experience. I believe the shop has done a number of THL installs since then, with no repeat of the problem.

Cheers
Andre

Ah! I can imagine the horror!

These guys have done their fair share of liner installations so if they can't get that much right then it's time for us all to buy comfortable shoes and take a hike.

I asked them before they did the job whether or not they heat the block and was told that it's warm from washing but that's about the extent of the heat. Liners are pressed home at that temperature.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MacMan

I love the way that this place pops up high on the Google rankings if searching for info.

I've done some thinking about my current rebuild and I think I'll go for studs rather than a new set of bolts, and ARP seem to be the only company offering a kit. I have tried VPW - price good at $166, but 10 week wait (SERIOUSLY!). Called TRS, have in hand, $328 for the kit (HUH???). A set of bolts can be had for under $80. Now wondering if it's worth sniffing out a purchase on eBay ex USA for a little over AUD $200 landed.

Pressure to make a decision is off because the block has gone back to the machinists to have them redo some of their work to acceptable standards, but 10 weeks is a stretch.

Are there any other suppliers who do kits of studs? While I'm at it should I consider studs for the main caps as well?

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I got my head studs from Summit, and mains from RPI from their eBay store. Both took around two weeks or so to get way up here.

I haven't used them yet, and just got them because, you know, "while I'm at it" . . .

Sorted! Called Fabre and they have the kit on the shelf and did it at a good price. About $235 delivered. TRS wanted well over $300 before delivery. Thanks for the leads guys.

And I checked the torque recommendations today. For the head studs, ARP reckon 80lbs, and for the mains, 110.

There's no way I'd go to 110 on the mains!

Des Hammill reckons 70-90lbs, but then says to check the manufacturer's instructions. Of course, he and ARP also say that align-honing is necessary, but really, that's not going to happen for a lot of people.

And in the latest bizarre twist (boom boom) and reiteration of the philosophy which proffers that one sleeps better if one stops reading once one's money has been spent, I found this:

New ARP stud kit for Rover V8 3.9, 4.0 and 4.6 - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

and this:

WARNING: ARP stud kit 124-4003 on Rover V8!!! - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

The question I ask myself is whether my 19 year old lump is considered modern or not.

I think you are over thinking this.

If you look at the start of this thread I noted that the studs do not bottom but have about 5MM clearance to the bottom of the hole. There is plenty of thread engaged, and I do not recall clearly but I think the bolts are not much longer. They wouldn't want to bottom .

This is on a 3.9, so I think all the blocks are the same. Mine has now gone about 20KK with no problems.
If anything I would think the studs are designed for a Buick block but they seem to work OK in a Rover.
Regards Philip A

Just have to decide to what torque setting I'm prepared to go. Consequences of pulled threads are not much fun.