fitted ARP studs to my 3.9 V8 today.

I have fitted ARP studs to hundreds of engines, never had a failure or thread pull and I have a thread somewhere here where I compared the values of the TTY bolts vs studs and their final lengths (post stretch). lets just say for me, TTY bolts scare baby jesus. I used the original early set of studs in my 4.6 without issue, the thread IS long enough to bottom out, Loctite SHOULD NEVER be used, only the ARP lube, 80 lbs is fine AS LONG AS YOU FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE. If you shortcut it they will fail prematurely. I have tested this with a bare block, tin & comp gaskets and 8 sets of TTY bols and 4 sets of studs.

I just found that these guys list ARP torque numbers in their catalogue:

http://www.realsteel.co.uk/section1.pdf

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MacMan

And in the latest bizarre twist (boom boom) and reiteration of the philosophy which proffers that one sleeps better if one stops reading once one's money has been spent, I found this:

New ARP stud kit for Rover V8 3.9, 4.0 and 4.6 - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

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And in the last post on the linked thread indictes that even ARP may believe that stud Part no 124-4003 is not suitable for Rover V8s. :confused:

Having about to start the rebuild process of my engine that has a striped head bolt hole (see http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...ld-thread.html) I am concerned about what torque to do the head nuts up to when time comes to put the heads on.

Likewise with the mains and big ends - stud torque seems excessive.

Garry

Garry,
when I bought mine they wrote the figure on the box--

I was close!
how about a sticky?;)

oh,, and this figure is from TRS,,,,,

I did mine up in a 25>50>75 ft/lb sequence. No problems.

Thanks guys for this new info. I have a kit, still unused, that only has the 80ft lb. Am going outside to hand write the 65 on the box before I forget. Will be watching this debate to see what transpires from ARP.

I also have a set of standard bolts that arrived with my rebuild kit...

Cheers
Ron

In both the Rover and Toyota V8's the stud torque is higher, although the Toyota TTY bolts are done up to tension and then 90deg method. Results for Toyota bolts are just as varied as the Rover testing I later did. Neither the Rover (alloy only) or Toyota (alloy & iron) bolcks had failure of the thread.

Pull out tensions tested on a damaged (main bearing carrier cracks) Toyota V8 showed pull out tensions with a ARP stud, using head and gasket, assembled as per factory isstructions, then continued to tension in sequence until failures occured. First failure was at 104ft/lbs & occured in one of the outer holes in a corner where you'd typically find less material. Failures of inner holes were before 110lbs, all had failed by 115lbs.

We later went to India to source some sets of studs (for unbelievable prices considering material quality, quantities and lead times). Same grad steels, sourced from same mills (coils landed from USA on docks in India while there) all labelled/batch numbered that was back checked. We needed a row of studs in each head to be modified to allow for the extra swing of the enlarged lobe of the cam (+9.8mm lift). We had 10 sample sets (studs/washers/nuts) made and sent 3 home, took rest to ARP for testing. Tested within specs for genuine ARP stuff so given 20 sets from India was cost of one from USA.

I ordered my head and main bearing cap studs from Fabre today - $220 and $107. However when I enquired about big end studs the guy said that the ARP listing for the old Buick 215 for these was a nut and bolt arrangement and not the current Rover arrangement of a threaded bolt hole in the conrod with a bolt.

So - some advice on this.

Use the old used big end bolts (not keen on this).

Buy new genuine big end bolts, or

As I wanted - buy aftermarket studs etc - but where from?? What make etc.

Cheers

Garry

I'm not sure why you're so against reusing the big end hardware. They should be fine to go back in as is.