Check for loose or corroded connections between battery and starter. I once thought I had a dead starter, as the 110 would start some times and not others, however it turned out to be a dodgy/corroded battery terminal.
Hey all.
As mentioned - 200Tdi Defender.
Ignition switch, alternator under 12 months old (alternator is the big one too - 105amp - standard disco fitment i believe) anyway
Battery brand new today.
turn the key, sounds like dead battery, then will fire into life...
or turn key, nothing, rock truck, dead battery sound then start.
alternator is charging battery very well. battery has more than 12.6 volts static.
please make it go![]()
Check for loose or corroded connections between battery and starter. I once thought I had a dead starter, as the 110 would start some times and not others, however it turned out to be a dodgy/corroded battery terminal.
Check to see that all the cables are on tight. The intermittent nature makes it sound like a poor earth connection. Has an earth strap been removed, is a new battery terminal smaller than the older one?
Otherwise it might be the switch, does it feel broken?
Has this just started to happen with the installation of the new battery?
I know that your not an idiot but have you checked the connections at the battery posts?![]()
Mahn England
DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)
Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html
Ex 300Tdi Disco:
Defenders are notorious for poor earthing and its good to check these irrespective.
*Earth lead runs from -ve battery post to body then chassis and g/box.
*Check connections, replace / repair make shiny.
*Also check main supply to starter motor.
Now define "dead battery sound" is that a slow turning start (WUUWUUWUUWUU) or fast turning starter and just no go?
If the latter tis more liekly the fuel cut solenoid. Check wiring and power supply to fuel cut solenoid at back of injection pump. If that is intermittently not getting 12V or solenoid is sticking then the starter will turn but the old girl cant fire without fuel.
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
isuzurover: starter sits under turbo/exhaust manifold... not easy to get at with 2.5" exhaust!! terminals appear clean via inspection with a mirror on a stick, and can't move cables..
michael2: all cables are tight. battery terminals are screw type. all identical, and everything tight. as for an earth strap...i certainly haven't removed any!! wouldn't know where to start looking.
one iota: no, this problem was the catalyst for the new battery. it was on its way out, but on paper, still should've performed better than it was. connections at battery posts are all good.
After you try to start it check start circuit connections for heat including battery terminals, the earth cable where it goes onto the transmission and the battery cable onto the starter. If it's a connection problem it'll show up as heat, otherwise check the starter, since you've already said the battery is good.
2stroke: they still get warm under normal circumstances though, yes?
Which ones do you mean? The terminal I had problems with was one of those screw type isolating terminals. It looked fine and clean.
I also had a problem with the IIA where the starter was shorting internally. It would also start intermittently. The battery cables wuld get very hot when trying to start.
isuzurover: nothing fancy like that. rather just a threaded stud. has been since i've had it. i carry adaptors should i ever need to use a battery with conventional posts. but i use CAT batteries, and a common one at that. 12 month global replacement warranty(as i found out today) cheap, too. and maintainence free. starting to think its a starter. which is NOT going to be fun.
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