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Yes ... It should be still in good nick ....Quote:
Originally Posted by POD
...Take a Toothbrush with you .... And some kerosene in a spray bottle will prove handy also ... to clean the metal paste off the female gear spline
Also a 30mm or 1 3/16" socket may prove handy (large lock nut on output shaft)
Just a thought tho .... To use the LT230 instead of the Borg warner ... the output shaft of the ZF auto is different? .. and has to be changed??
Hope it's a simple fix
Cheers
Mike
I can't help you POD but your current experience is my biggest fear when taking my Rangie up the bush deer hunting.
Good luck with getting it home and/or doing the repair in the bush.
Looking forward to a good experience/all is well story from you soon.
I would tow it home as its easier to swap out the transfer case in a controlled environment. They are heavier than the lt 230 by a lot. Lying on your back is hard work under the vehicle thats if you were going to swap the case.
I too believe that the mainshaft splines are kaput. I had to hammer my shaft out when it almost stripped as it was in real tight. You will probably have burrs on it. Mikes post about replacing the guts is a good option if you have a spare to go in. I know this is what they do when in the workshops, so there is no reason not to do it in situ.
You will have to remove front propshaft and then the flange nut as well as what Mike has posted and then it should all come out as one....from memory
Just a thought tho .... To use the LT230 instead of the Borg warner ... the output shaft of the ZF auto is different? .. and has to be changed??
No its the same Mike uses a splined spudshaft
Good luck
Brad:)
Thanks again fellas, being picked up shortly to head back up there. Taking the complete viscous transfer less VC with me; plan A is to swap the output shaft where she lies, as described by Mike90RR. I'll pick up some hylomar and a can of carb clean in Traralgon on the way through. Plan B is to swap the transfer case; with the two output housings removed, I can pick it up to shoulder height off the bench, so two of us should be able to bench-press it into place and then install the VC and rear output housing. Plan C is to tow the thing home. 1 km up a steep, disused track, then 175km home, first 70km or so of which is winding mountain roads. Not looking forward to that.
Yes sounds like it.Quote:
Thanks guys, - reading through and following the link to the viscous/LT 230 makes me suspect my viscous as being on the way out... at 155,000km.
- Symptoms are: when turning sharply the engine is severely loaded and on sand you can hear and feel tiny bunny-hops, like axle wind-up in a conventional 4WD.
Front tyres are badly feathered, especially when considering that they've been well inflated... - 40 psi at the moment to see if this alters the wear pattern...
Put the tranfer in neutral handbrake on, jack up one front tyre then either try to turn the tyre or if you are like me place a big screwdriver through the front UJ being careful not to damage the grease nipple or seals.
You should be able to turn the tyre or screwdriver sloooowly with some effort which increases the faster you try.
They usually seize and if no movement you had better get a new one or you too will enjoy stripped output splines.
Regards Philip A
I was unsure, as I have a vague memory of reading somewhere, of being different lengths ...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradtot
Cheers
Mike
:)
Just got home after sorting this problem out with thanks to the help received here. Removed the rear output shaft and housing and sure enough, it was round and shiny where it should have been splined. The female splined area in the centre diff appeared unaffected. Installed the output shaft and housing out of the other box and good as new.
The shaft was very difficult to withdraw with the splines being so cactus. This was not an easy job to do with the car stopped sideways across a 25degree rocky track, but still far preferable to towing it the 170-odd km home through the mountains. I'm not sure the toyota would have snigged it up out of where it died, almost certainly would have been some winching involved. In short, I'm very relieved that the easiest option worked out. Took my mate for a bit of a tour of some of my favourite high-country spots nearby, had a few snags at a cattlemens hut then drove home without incident.
The transfer shifter is still moving back and forth with almost no resistance at all, I'm wondering if perhaps the detent mechanism came adrift somehow.
I will not be taking this vehicle back into the bush with the viscous transfer in it. It will be getting a LT230 installed as a matter of urgency. Bad enough to have the 10-spline diffs waiting to let go at the first opportunity, without also having a crucial transfer case component made out of cheese. I now have zero confidence in the vehicle and that does not make for an enjoyable trip.
Thanks again to those who answered the plea for info. I'm off for a much-needed shower and then a belated dinner.
I've got OK confidence in the B/W box ... BUT believe that when they hit the 200k mark ... They should be pulled apart for an inspection .... resetting and replacement of partsQuote:
Originally Posted by POD
(These boxes are being used in the P38)
That main shaft you replaced .... I believe that's the fuse / sacrificial wear item .... Easy to check and cheap to replace
... I keep a spare shaft under my seat when venturing out ;)
Actually .... I was waiting for a tall tale of ...
Fixed the Rangie ... Had to winch the Tojo out :p
Cheers
Mike
POD, Good to hear you survived !
Just in case you're correct Phil.... that my viscous is cactus, whats the most effective 'fix' ?- have the thing re-built or have it changed to the LT230Q? - Assuming its just a bolt-in replacement...
- Actually, make that 'cheapest fix' as I really don't think the beast is worthy of wasting money on!
Got my long-lost Pajero back on the week-end, and to be honest, around town the ride is pretty similar to the Rangie, which is sort of disappointing in a funny way.
James in Gosnells.
Well AFAIK an LT230 is definitely the cheapest.Quote:
Just in case you're correct Phil.... that my viscous is cactus, whats the most effective 'fix' ?- have the thing re-built or have it changed to the LT230Q? - Assuming its just a bolt-in replacement...
- Actually, make that 'cheapest fix' as I really don't think the beast is worthy of wasting money on!
Personally, I will rebuild my BW when the time comes as I believe it makes the late RRC special.
I clearly remember the clunks and bangs associated with my LT95 even after rebuild, and the LT230 is much the same. The melody of LT230s stopping in low range stays with you; kerchunck, kerchunk kerchunk as they rock backwards and forwards on the gears.
For touring the BW is clearly superior, and I have never had a problem keeping up with LT230 cars on rocks.The BW is IMHO inferior in sand.
Regards Philip A