urgent help needed- RR broken up the bush.

I agree totally with you, Philip. The rebuild is easiest done with parts from the UK freighted into in <$1K parcels. Ashcrofts have a bearing/seal etc kit for AFAIR 95 UKquid. Island 4x4 suppies the rest of the bits at the best rates I have been able to find. You should be able to do the lot, including morse chain, viscous coupling and output shaft for about $1200 or thereabouts.

I found that heating the bearings made the assembly easy, drop-on shafts and hubs and heating the chain allowed a very easy drive/driven gear assembly. I put them in the oven and heated to 150-160C and handled them with leather mitts.

Do the thrusts in the centre diff while you are at it.

Trust in the TC? Why not, if you can repair them so easily?

FWIW

Pete

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Well AFAIK an LT230 is definitely the cheapest.
Personally, I will rebuild my BW when the time comes as I believe it makes the late RRC special.
I clearly remember the clunks and bangs associated with my LT95 even after rebuild, and the LT230 is much the same. The melody of LT230s stopping in low range stays with you; kerchunck, kerchunk kerchunk as they rock backwards and forwards on the gears.
For touring the BW is clearly superior, and I have never had a problem keeping up with LT230 cars on rocks.The BW is IMHO inferior in sand.
Regards Philip A

---

Interesting... I get the impression that you are biased against the mechanical 3rd diff....
Today a very knowledgable chap told me that he considered the BW a bit better in sand.... Guess that means they're pretty close and an ignoramus like myself would'nt know better.! Won't argue that!

- Same chappy also thinks that shafts are differant, and linkages etc for the selector add to the complexity of the move to an LT230.

In the mean time I'll take my time and look for a decent 2nd hand replacement till I finally decide to change...or re-build mine.

The idea of taking off the front prop. shaft and existing with RWD for a while went down the gurgler when it was pointed out that the standard LR/RR read diff is NOT strong enough...... and nor are the rear axles.:mad:

James the Grumpy in Gosnells.

Pierre,

Would'nt it be cheaper to just buy the re-con box from Ashcroft ? - Or is the freight and/or customs a problem...

At 156K mine has a dead viscous, which also implies the chains/sprockets are getting shorter in the tooth, so to speak

I'm mis ing something, just not sure what it is...

James in Gosnells

The EH, 95 Vogue SE with siezed viscous, - but the EAS works a treat!

Decided to start a fresh thread re the rebuild of my BW case. For what it's worth though, when I swapped the BW in my 94 soft-dash for the LT230 out of my old 88RR, it was a very straightforward job. Needed the linkages from the 88 as well as the rear prop shaft and pinion flange. Output shaft on the ZF is the same between the two. I used a Disco rubber gearshift surround and window switch panel. Can't wait to get the woodgrain bits back in it.

Quote:

---

Interesting... I get the impression that you are biased against the mechanical 3rd diff....

---

No not really, it's horses for courses.
If you a weekend warrior and the noise didn't worry you , then an LT230 is a great strong transfer case. It's just that they are uncivilised compared to chain drive cases. That is a and probably the major reason most manufacturers including Toyota and Land Rover now use chain drive cases.
Regards Philip A

Philip A, - If the only noise and roughness is in the process of changing the Hi / Lo, then I've already lived with that in a previous job... a gas RR, which must have been an 88 as it had a diff lock light near the selector...

POD, my apologies for derailing your thread.... - Serves you right for going off to shoot Bambi's mummy and daddy !

- but thanks for the info about putting the '88 LT230 into the softdash. - Makes it sound so easy... just bolt in the box with its own prop shaft... (?)

James on a steeep learning curve.:eek:

Maybe I'm just deaf, but the LT230's I've run (two different ones) have never made enough noise to notice. My RRC does have sound insulation, but it's not exactly a sound-studio.

SQ, there are cost implications for any import over $1K. My brother got a BW box from Ashcroft about 2 years ago. It was a painless transaction, but on costs were in the order of $600, with duties and taxes applicable at this end. On top of the prime cost, it put the repair at about $2K.

We (same bro & I) did a full rebuild about 3 months ago. It cost us $1193 in bits and about 9 hours to remove, rebuild and replace the transfer box.

And I reckon the line about RR diffs is cow manure.

That's what I'm saying, man.

Cheers

Pete