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Duel high pressure pumps? thats only needed in high HP applications.....and stinky rover motors are far from high HP:DQuote:
Originally Posted by big guy
Lift pump, swirl pot, high pressure pump is a very good way, but intank is even better as it has its own swirl pot inbuilt i the carriage that takes the pump
Agree Rovercare and what i did when fitting "federal" injection to my 77 2 door.
I used a Facet as the low pressure pump from the original pickup, into a bit of 3 inch exhaust made into a swirl pot vertical in front of the LH arch, then into a Bosch high pressure pump.
BTW, one of the major costs in this was the high pressure hose from the HP pump to the motor.
I first ran the return back to the swirl pot but found the fuel heated up in slow going , so I fed it back via the original return.
Regards Philip A
You need 4 ports for the swirl pot, outlet and return for both high pressure and low pressure side, that way its no issue:)Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
ok so after all ive read on the last few posts im unsure on which way to head, but i have acquired a vl high pressure in line fuel pump which i plan on at least fitting to my car with the sill tanks and hopefully all going well it should work as a few people have already said there could be a few issues with fuel surge etc. if there is how do i combat it. i.e: setup etc?
Thanks Tim
Basically if you want best reliability make a surge tank as mentioned below. Fill it with the Holley pump, let the excess fuel and injector return go back to the sill tank. Otherwise if the pump was cheap just hang it on there somewhere, with the pick up towards the rear of the tank. Don't let your petrol level run low unless you have a switch to disable the VL pump when not needed. Anyway, in the end it will last a fair while so long as the pump doesn't run dry for long.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ye Olde Rangie
Run the HP return from the rail straight back too the main tank, not the surge.
Feed the surge from the low pressure pump, allow it too drain back too tank from the highest fitting on the tank too maintain highest possible fuel level.
You need too run another return from the surge too the main but this will keep your fuel as cool as possible and avoid fuel over pressure problems that can occur if the surge can empty the flow from the LP and HP pump fast enough with the single return
IMHO best and cheapest solution would be an EFI rangie tank. Cut a nice access hole in the cargo bay floor and pick up a spare pump from a VL(I think??) commodore.
Or see if the floor from a late model efi rangie with the access hole will fit your 2 door
EDIT: just realised its a non efi car so you will need to run too return line too the main tank on for the fuel rail return and one for the Surge tank
no worries so ill get a surge tank built up and add the fuel pump and lines but i cant add the efi fuel tank because its got rear gas tanks fitted so ill have to hide it all underneath which should be easy enough with the body lift, so the surge tank needs to have 4 lines i think? as stated early on for the drain and the high and low pressure sides
I'd still recommend running the rail retrun straight back the the main tanks
Ditto.
As I think I said , I actually fitted injection to a 2 door and plumbed the return back to the surge tank.
I found that the car stalled one day in low ratio going and the problem was that with little fuel use most was recirculating back to the surge tank. The fuel got hotter and hotter until the engine stalled through vaporisation.
Once I changed the fuel return back to the tank it was OK.
AFAIR , and it was 16 years ago, you can use the old carby return to the tank which goes back to the upper RH side. The line is thinner but on mine was adequate as it didn't run rich.
Funnily enough all 14CUX RRCs return the fuel to the sump under the pump, but it doesn't seem to be such a problem, although they can get cranky in slow going. Must be that the fuel in the tank cools the fuel in the sump.
Been there done that.
Regards Philip A