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Thread: 2 dr classic efi conversion

  1. #1
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    2 dr classic efi conversion

    Hi all after recently removing my 4.4 P76 ive bought a 4.2 stroker engine on dual fuel that came out of a 2dr discovery. Ive removed all the electrics and plumbed them in to my car all fits reasonably well. My questions are firstly will i need a fuel pump to suit the new engine or will my holley one suit and what wires do i need to trace for the ignition and computer to make it run. I realise ill need a wiring diagram etc but im just not sure how many/few wires and efi car needs to run well.
    Thanks Tim

  2. #2
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    You will need a high pressure fuel pump to suit EFI, I use a bosch external pump to suit VL Commodore.

    As far as wiring is concerned, you don't need very many wires to get it working. Assuming it is a hotwire EFI system (should be) have a look at this site.

    Rover 14CUX Hot Wire Mass Flow EFI: Service and Troubleshooting

    If you scroll down it will give all the ECU pinouts. It is the reference I used when I installed the hotwire EFI system into my 87 Rangie. If you do a search I did a thread about it.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ye Olde Rangie View Post
    Hi all after recently removing my 4.4 P76 ive bought a 4.2 stroker engine on dual fuel that came out of a 2dr discovery. Ive removed all the electrics and plumbed them in to my car all fits reasonably well. My questions are firstly will i need a fuel pump to suit the new engine or will my holley one suit and what wires do i need to trace for the ignition and computer to make it run. I realise ill need a wiring diagram etc but im just not sure how many/few wires and efi car needs to run well.
    Thanks Tim
    You will need an EFI fuel pump because injection requires more pressure than carbs. Best bet is to acquire a '86 on RRC fuel tank with a pump in it. Also a return line back to the tank. You should already have a fuel pump relay with the D1 setup.

    The only connection the computer has to the ignition coil is a wire to the negative side of the coil, with an inline resistor. Usually a white/black stripe wire. Otherwise you need a battery feed (6mm brown wire) and an ignition feed to the computer.

  4. #4
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    the only thing i havent swapped over from the discovery is the ignition barrel wiring etc but other than that all the plugs and wires match up nicely and look factory i dont have a fuel pump off the discovery as it has twin scuba style tanks in the back and had an auxillary tank in the rear quarter, ill be running my lra sill tanks as my petrol tanks so is it possible to have an in line pump to suit or do i have to modify the tanks? With regards to the computer there should only be 3 wires to snip and reconnect is that right? All the wiring under the dash is loose fitted so can be chopped as required.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ye Olde Rangie View Post
    the only thing i havent swapped over from the discovery is the ignition barrel wiring etc but other than that all the plugs and wires match up nicely and look factory i dont have a fuel pump off the discovery as it has twin scuba style tanks in the back and had an auxillary tank in the rear quarter, ill be running my lra sill tanks as my petrol tanks so is it possible to have an in line pump to suit or do i have to modify the tanks? With regards to the computer there should only be 3 wires to snip and reconnect is that right? All the wiring under the dash is loose fitted so can be chopped as required.
    I can't be exactly sure how many wires there are but I suggest you buy a RAVE manual from the shop link above for D1 wiring diagrams. The computer you have will need permanent power and ignition power, these should be available at the ignition switch. Everything else should be connected to the engine and accessories.

    As for the pump you need to understand EFI pumps require flooded suction as they will not last very long without slight positive fuel pressure to the inlet. So no high mounted pumps, your inline pump (eg Vk/VL Commodore, 80's Volvo etc) will need to be mounted near the bottom of the tank. In my mate's 3.5 EFI RRC I modded an early sill tank to receive his original in-tank pump assembly so I could do the twin LPG install under the back. His other sill tank has a transfer pump to the main tank.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post

    As for the pump you need to understand EFI pumps require flooded suction as they will not last very long without slight positive fuel pressure to the inlet.
    My pump is mounted on top of the chassis rail and has been there for about 4 or 5 years. Probably well over 100 000km.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    My pump is mounted on top of the chassis rail and has been there for about 4 or 5 years. Probably well over 100 000km.
    Prove me wrong, why don't you!

    Seriously though, most inline pumps run a separate lift pump as well. The Holley carb pump may actually do for this job, but an in-tank main pump is still the best solution. Only the '75 Volvo ran a low mounted external pump (with a 1/2 inch pick up pipe), all other vehicles I have seen have been fed by low pressure in-tank jobbies.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    My pump is mounted on top of the chassis rail and has been there for about 4 or 5 years. Probably well over 100 000km.
    Mine as well on the top of chassis also done 50k plus no problems
    Sorry Bee utey
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Prove me wrong, why don't you!

    Seriously though, most inline pumps run a separate lift pump as well. The Holley carb pump may actually do for this job, but an in-tank main pump is still the best solution. Only the '75 Volvo ran a low mounted external pump (with a 1/2 inch pick up pipe), all other vehicles I have seen have been fed by low pressure in-tank jobbies.
    Pretty sure the RB30 powered VL's didn't have a lift pump?

    Anyhow, you'll need a swirl pot, the sill tanks are too big and open for continous fuel pick up and you'll kill high pressure pumps when run low

  10. #10
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    I am just sitting with my mechanic this morning as he went over my Disco I just sold. I asked him same question and he highly recommends dual pump set up, one for reduced running temps to get same pressure and hence shorter life span and 2 for better and more even fuel pressure.
    He also seems to think a good in tank single pump system works best as fuel is acting as cooling system.

    Only problem is if it breaks down, its a tank out prosition.

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