Cracking of TD5 exhaust manifold studs is a common issue. Fix is relatively easy search for exhaust manifold or I believe it's in the good oil
Just renewing the small hose from the oil cooler to the pipe at the back of the engine, must be the original, 1999, very soft and leaked on a long run, could see water collecting in the rear corner of the engine down low.
The spigots for the hose on the cooler and pipe are ok after a cleanup, should I use some kind of sealant when putting the hose on,dont want to do this for a while.
Also, the rear bottom stud on the exhaust manifold was missing a nut, this seems to be fairly commonly reported , any one know why this happens? AAAAH,so many questions, so little Bundy, cheers Bob![]()
I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food
A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking
Cracking of TD5 exhaust manifold studs is a common issue. Fix is relatively easy search for exhaust manifold or I believe it's in the good oil
Is that the little guy about 2" long ? Easily missed if you aren't looking for it and it cops all the radiant heat from the turbo. Worst thing is the little blighter has two different diameters so you can't even use a piece of heater hose if you are in a bind.
I now carry a spare in my parts bin after getting caught out. Was extremely lucky to notice the puddle coming out of work one day. That was the day I decided an Enginer Saver will be a mandatory piece of kit on any car I own.
Definately,so easy to miss, I was aware of it only because of this forum.After a long drive I was losing small amounts of coolant, didn't happen around town. Noticed small amount of water collecting on the engine block low down at the back. I had a job getting the heat shield off, the bolt holding it to the turbo was seized. Had to drill and chisel the pop rivets to take the aluminium shield off then attack the exposed bolt. New bolt gone in with anti-seize compound on it. The oil pressure switch had some gunk in it, cleaned it out , replaced the plastic cover over the wires, old one had hardened and fell apart [ would have been 11 yrs old] The hose was bulging under pressure, just got it in time.Engine saver is good idea, for sure. Bob
I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food
A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking
Yep, it's an odd sized bit of hose. As listed elsewhere in this forum, I've been chasing down the absence of this hose and downstream plumbing from my TD5 D2a which came to light after the cap on the oil cooler outlet - where this hose should be - had cracked.
No luck anywhere getting a cap that would suit (Enzed, Repco, Bursons, Pirtek), so I put a new hose piece on, then placed a round headed bolt in with the thread coming out the other (narrower) end then did it up against the clamp on the thinner end. Not a drop coming out![]()
I use a smear of non corrosive sensor safe sealant on all metal radiator hose connections. They always seem to have some corrosion, maybe from that pink oat coolant?.
I need to change this little hose on one of our TD5's, it's sitting in the centre console, need a bit of spare time to do it.
Re; the back most nut on the manifold, mine dissapeared also, don't know how long it was gone for, but I never had any exhaust leaks. I managed to find a suitable stainless nut in the garage and stuck that in place, no problems, although I think it's important not to overtighten!!!!!.
Yes, bigO , I noticed build up of some residue around the oil cooler spigot, also some dried pink residue, must be the oat. The rave dvd says to fit and tighten the exhaust manifold nuts from the centre outwards to 25Nm, [18 lbf.ft.], whichs begs the question, where do I get a decent tension wrench? Supacheap do the job? Cheers, Bob
I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food
A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking
yep, the supercheap torque wrenches are up to the job but remember to look after them and they should be calibrated (or at least get be checked) every 12 months
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food
A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking
no such thing as a silly question, unless you think of one and dont ask it, thats just silly.
I get them calibrated at work, we have a cal room....
in the field I use maths and a securely mounted socket.
Torque=effrort x Distance of effort from center of rotation
Ergo
1nm= the force of 1 newton applied at 1m
1nm= the force of 2 newtons applied at .5m
1nm= the force of 4 newtons applied at .25m
1nm= the force of 10 newtons applied at .1m
1nm= the force of 20 newtons applied at .05m
.98kg exerts 10n of "downwards" force while static.
so.
weld a socket to the bench orientated so that your torque wrench installed onto the socket and can be hung level and support a weight so that the weight wants to move it in the direction of Updo.
set a convenient torque setting (remembering that you usually dont use the bottom 1/3rd of your torque scale so a 0-100nm torque wrench is in reality a 33-100nm torque wrench and ideally you test at 1/3rd, 2/3 and full scale) that gives you some nice sane numbers for weight and distance then hang said weight from a piece of wire at said distance from the center of the socket.
in 90% of applications you will have a tolerance for torque which is typically nominal value +/-5% and you have the same margin of error for your torque wrench.
Normally I mark the torque wrench where the weight should sit to trigger the indicator and hang the weight inside of that.. I then slide the weight towards the handle. If it clicks before I cross the line its under reading and you are over tightening bolts, if it clicks after its over reading and you are under tightening your bolts.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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