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and lastly, starting with the timing lined up correctly and then turn it to replicate the position it was in when i pulled it apart.
i wasn't able to get it to look like how it was when i first pulled it apart, so it's hard to see that it was installed correctly.
we at least i'm starting to getting learn what the hell has been going on with the motor.
the heads i will return to the machine shop. they are very close by the workshop which did the install. not sure how i will approach it yet - well more to the point i don't understand the implications.
so with the valves making gouges in the piston tops i can understand there will be some new valves and possibly valve guides needed.
but what about other stuff like pistons or con rods etc?? any one shed some light on that?
if the damage is directly attributable to the cam being installed incorrectly is this looking like a new motor job? i'm thinking cost wise perspective as my car sure isn't going back to victoria to the worskhop that did it and another workshop will have to be paid to correct, i think i've shown enough goodwill and will put the tools down now?
Hey brett, that is the only way these engines can hit valves, with the timing out.:mad::mad:
Idiots.
i wouldn't worry about the conrods etc, if heads check out then refit properly and you are away.
If yo need a hand, shout out, but it looks like you are going well though, well done. can you pm me your number anyway?
I would never have thought ANYONE especially a workshop could muck up a rover v8 timing instal:mad:
jc
BUT if it is only timing why are the seals destroyed?
This would suggest that the valves are being lifted more than stated.
According to the book the guides are correct height.
Regards Philip A
G`day Brett ,
if the guides are high the only fix requires heads removal so the head place is up for anything related to removal and refit as well as the heads themselves .
The valves having hit the pistons means the workshop is also up for heads removal and refit and anything related as well as the heads themselves . They are also up for cam , lifter and any or all of the drive train , it`s not just the valve head that gets a wack it`s all the gear back to the cam .
The marks on the pistons won`t matter and anything below the pistons should be ok as far as the valves and pistons contacting .
You probably should be entitled to a new engine , nothing lost by suggesting it but yours would be fine put together right .
In your 1st pic of the 2 chambers the exhaust valve on the right appears to have a larger and different shaped recess in the valve head not just the carbon ?
The dots on the cam and crank gear don`t necessarily have to line up at 6 and 12 if a degree wheel and dial gauge are used to do the timing . The main fact that says the timing is wrong is the valve and piston contact .
You`ve done very well , i think and with all the knowledge you`ve gained and your attitude , i`m sure you`ll negotiate well with the two shops and if need be i`d think you`d have little trouble putting it back together the right way and after this epic adventure what an achievement it would be .
philip - i checked the base circle on the cam and with wades. they say 1.085 inches which it was. the lift at cam was 267. i don't know why they busted the seals. i will be sending heads back for them to check.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
PLR/JC - thanks for words of encouragement.
am thinking why put it all back together. lpg prices down here means the car is too expensive to run. financially better off seeing what deal the workshop will settle with (if any) to make a cash payment then break the bloody thing. i had looked at the 4bd1t and spoke to roads dept here and JC. there just isn't one to drive in a disco/rangie around here. and for round $8-10k i just don't have it till my house sells (if and when the way the market is here.)
forgot to mention, there is one lobe on the camshaft which is truly shagged so needs a new camshaft (this wll be the third!). the oil pump looks like it has had metal go thorugh it - it has some scoring and clearance is out of spec (i would say from the first camshaft which got eaten up). so by the time all these things get added up plus labour it gets quite expensive, especially for a very thirsty motor.
Pibby , sorry to appear pedantic, but I am suggesting that you check the dimensions yourself, as maybe a Wade employee either pressed the wrong button ( probably these days) or placed the wrong template into the cam grinding machine.( old days)Quote:
philip - i checked the base circle on the cam and with wades. they say 1.085 inches which it was. the lift at cam was 267. i don't know why they busted the seals. i will be sending heads back for them to check.
There has to be some explanation for the crushed seals.
Regards Philip A
philip - those dimensions were me physically checking against wade specs and was ok. you're not being pedantic, i see it as being thorough. thanks.
will box up heads and send in next day or so.
G`day Brett ,
don`t see how this can be coincidental .
Looking in one of my old manuals and the valve guide installed height is 19mm , these type heads either use a flat washer type stem seal or none at all .
yep - this saga refuses to die.
head place corrected the valve guides - they were about 4 mm too high and provided gaskets and head bolt set.
HOWEVER - had motor inspected by independent land rover specialist and report written which confirmed the motor is cactus as it was run without oil during the intial camshaft bedding in 2 or so years ago (car has only travelled 11k km since then). all bearings worn, oil pump gears show lots of metal gone through, sump full of a silvery sludge.
provided report to mechanic in melbourne who did the work. rang him and spoke to his wife (the mechanic happens to not be in on the days when i ring even though it is his workshop). he had read report and response was "no response".
said i would settle for short motor and cost to get back on road around $7.5-$8k or would seek additional $3-4k in additional costs i have incurred through small claims tribunal. so that's where it goes off to now.(albeit $10k limit)
am i missing something here. why would someone who can clearly be shown to have caused the problem not wish to settle for the lesser amount and get it over and done with? his insurance company won't be happy with him. is there a catch in the process or there's a way people can wriggle out of these situations?