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Thread: 3ooTdi Timing belt Tension?

  1. 22nd April 2011, 05:19 PM #1
    sumo
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    3ooTdi Timing belt Tension?

    Hi all, Just been going over old threads regarding above, is it still 11NM torque for the tensioner, or is there still hassles with this?

    Thanks

    Cheers Sumo
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  2. 22nd April 2011, 05:34 PM #2
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    TD5_Fender
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    Workshop manual says 12nm for an old timing belt and 15nm for a new one. Just replaced the belt as well as updated pulley kit in my 300tdi last weekend and did the tensioner to 15nm as per workshop manual and it felt pretty much spot on to me after a couple of rotations.

    Cheers Shane
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  3. 22nd April 2011, 09:56 PM #3
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    rick130
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    AFAIK 11Nm is still the recommended tension for a new belt.
    I'd also recommend the one piece crank pulley (as used in the Bearmach kits) rather than the genuine part which uses 'ears' that are spot welded onto it.
    The three piece pulleys have a reputation of the ears going ta ta's and killing the belt.

    The tension listed in the manual is too high, there was a TSB issued about this.
    I haven't head of any problems since the revised (lower) tensions have been used over the last twelve years.

    As mentioned in The Good Oil, the best instructions and recommended tensions are at DiffLock. There are some PDFs listed here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/4...ming-belt.html
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  4. 23rd April 2011, 09:12 AM #4
    sumo
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    AFAIK 11Nm is still the recommended tension for a new belt.
    I'd also recommend the one piece crank pulley (as used in the Bearmach kits) rather than the genuine part which uses 'ears' that are spot welded onto it.
    The three piece pulleys have a reputation of the ears going ta ta's and killing the belt.

    The tension listed in the manual is too high, there was a TSB issued about this.
    I haven't head of any problems since the revised (lower) tensions have been used over the last twelve years.

    As mentioned in The Good Oil, the best instructions and recommended tensions are at DiffLock. There are some PDFs listed here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/4...ming-belt.html

    Thanks Rick.....Cheers Sumo
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  5. 23rd April 2011, 10:22 AM #5
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    Blknight.aus
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    10-12Nm...

    dont skimp on the loctite on the retaining bolts/nuts...
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  6. 23rd April 2011, 08:00 PM #6
    BIG O
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    11 Nm, what I used to set it at, hated that job, never had the right timing tools etc when doing it,,glad I've got a TD5 now .. sorry.
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  7. 24th April 2011, 06:33 AM #7
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    Blknight.aus
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    you dont need timing tools to do it, its just easier...

    to do it without timing tools back off the rockers, drop the vac pump and the fuel pump that takes the spring loading off of the cam. Set the crank and the cam, set the injector pump in position and then hold it there with either a ring spanner on the center nut or by improvising with a large phillips head screwdriver in the locking pin hole and then "leaning" it against the IP timing gear.

    if youve got it available to help keep the crank in the right position compressed air down pot 2 or 3 through the injector hole works a treat.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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