Reply With QuoteAnd why can you not run a cable to the front of the vehicle?
DC-DC will suck dollars and will not perform...
Are you concerned about pulling the vehicle apart or some other issue?
Seems a lot of limitations you have imposed on yourself
ForumSage
SubscriberYes I know copious amount has been written re these two systems for charging aux. batteries but I am still in a dilemma. When I had my 110 I had a solenoid control switched by the ignition and it worked fine. Now I have a rangie L322 TD6, and it is a different ball game. If I understand previous threads on this topic, Traxide charges at full rate whilst dc/dc units are limited to 20A. My problem is I have no way of installing the second battery in the engine bay, so it must go down the back. To compound the problem it is impossible to run a dedicated charge circuit to the front so I am limited to using the battery feed in situ. This feed is fused at 100A, so at no time can the charge current be anything near this. If the rear battery is down on charge I feel that the Traxide initial charge rate may greater than that, although this would drop as the battery comes up. That being the case I feel that a DC/DC system would not overload the supply circuit, although the charge time would be extended. Have I got this right? If not where has my logic left me. Jim
Jim VK2MAD
-------------------------
'17 Isuzu D-Max
And why can you not run a cable to the front of the vehicle?
DC-DC will suck dollars and will not perform...
Are you concerned about pulling the vehicle apart or some other issue?
Seems a lot of limitations you have imposed on yourself
ForumSage
SubscriberI realise the cost but have you seen one of these vehicles? It would be a nightmare to run a cable.
Jim VK2MAD
-------------------------
'17 Isuzu D-Max
Swaggie
SubscriberOh, come on. Drill those holes. Its only steel. And once its not a virgin anymore you and it will feel better.
Regards Philip A
OldBushie
Hi Tombie, mate, think of the worst vehicle you have ever had to run cable through, now double the problem and you are now getting close to what is involved with running heavy cables through an L322 RR.Originally Posted by Tombie
Over the 35+ years I’ve been wiring vehicles, I’ve run wiring and cables through just about every type of vehicle there is but these new RR Vogues are the pits.
OldBushie
Hi jx2mad, the positive cable running to the electronics and fuse panel in the rear is 25mm2, which has a constant maximum current rate of 170 amps.
If you were to have 3 x 100 Ah batteries in a very low state, you might pull 100 amps but if you have a single 100 Ah battery in a very low state, you would be lucky to pull 40-45 amps, so the positive cable is fine.
The problem is not the positive cable, it finding a suitable negative/earth return.
In the very near future I plan to put a battery box in the back of mine. When I get the chance I’ll go looking for a decent earth point, I’m sure there must be one just for the Range Rover’s requirements.
Wizard
SubscriberCompared to a Cruiser or Patrol even the D4 is a nightmare. I wish I had investigated the use of a cable conduit strapped or through the chassis rail, rather than trying to run cable after cable through the vehicle, and trying to find a way through the firewall. What a mission !! Not to late to try I suppose. What I really love ( as I get older ) is trying to stand on my head under the dash to see what the hell I am doing.
D4 2.7litre
OldBushie
Ain’t that the gospel
Drill hole in floor of cargo area, run cable along chassis rail, up through engine bay
Seal up hole around cable with a rubber grommet, and sika.
Come on...its a Land Rover for god's sake!
TopicToaster
If it were truly a LR then forego the grommet and use the wire as a fuseable link, when it rubs through then you know the wire's worn out.
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