Swivel preload again

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

From memory ...
The Swivel preload test is done with the swivel seal removed

Cheers
Mike

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Yes, but adding about two pounds to the tension allows for the seal. In practice, there is a reasonable range of preload that seems to work satisfactorily. If it is too tight you get poor self centring, but if too loose you get shimmy. In my experience, the workable range seems to be from 50% above the book to only slight resistance felt, although obviously, if the damping at the swivel is trying to cope with other steering faults, you need to be in the upper part of the range.

Almost always, when I have checked preload prompted by the development of shimmy, the preload has been zero or near enough to on at least one swivel.

John

how many lbs/kgs should the preload be?

i think we have a spring gauge here at work

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Originally Posted by BigJon

You can just allow for seal drag when doing it either with a gauge or by hand.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Yes, but adding about two pounds to the tension

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It's only 6 odd extra bolts to get it right .... :D

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Originally Posted by weeds

how many lbs/kgs should the preload be?

i think we have a spring gauge here at work

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8-10lbs, 3.6-4.5kg measured at the track rod ball joint eye, and taking the steady reading after it has started moving. The pull should be at right angles to the line joining the eye and the swivel.

But as I said, my experience shows that the actual value is not all that critical, as long as there is some preload.

John

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

It's only 6 odd extra bolts to get it right .... :D

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Small, fiddly bolts, and then you have to clean off the sealant you put behind the seal to make sure it did not leak........

John

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

It's only 6 odd extra bolts to get it right .... :D

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I did mine without a gauge at all, but with the seal removed. Steering self centres and no shimmy. As JDNSW says, the actual preload isn't critical, just as long as you have some.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Small, fiddly bolts, and then you have to clean off the sealant you put behind the seal to make sure it did not leak........

John

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Done a few ... Oil filled swivels ... No sealant (used new seal) ...

.... It never leaks

However, Holimar 3, is my friend for sealants ....



Fiddly bolts? ... :huh: ... Better than the propshaft bolts :( ... :D

Cheers
Mike

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

Better than the propshaft bolts :( ... :D

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What's wrong with them?

A 1/4" drive 9/16ths" socket is what you need ;).

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Originally Posted by Scouse

What's wrong with them?

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I just find them to be a PITA .... :( .... Their been my pet hate since Day 1

One day I'm gonna find that 9/16ths, that I can grind down the top part to a round shoulder, to clear the uni joint

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Small, fiddly bolts, and then you have to clean off the sealant you put behind the seal to make sure it did not leak........

John

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John, if you don't wish to lose any oil from the swivel housing, try supporting it from underneath with some packing or a jack while removing the shims and wouldn't you like to strangle the bastard that designed the brake hose bracket, Regards Frank.