Reply With Quotei have been ignoring my wobbles for awhile, i might be doing the same job this weekend
RoverLord
Over the last few months I have noticed an incipient shimmy on bumps with the 110. Despite the fact that the swivels have been done fairly recently, this was immediately suspected as the culprit. (I have recently replaced a panhard bush, but that was wandering, not shimmy) Removing the RH wheel and disconnecting the tie rod showed that the RH swivel had somewhere round the right preload.
But removing the LH wheel and the tie rod and drag link connections immediately showed that there was virtually no preload - no more resistance to turning than would be expected from the seal. Which raises another point - although seals were replaced when the swivels were done, the LH seal was leaking slightly - not enough to describe as a weep, but enough for oil to creep over the whole swivel housing and collect dust. Maybe this was a symptom of where the problem lay, which I should have spotted immediately (I did the RH first because it only needs one TRE disconnecting).
As soon as I loosened the bolts holding the top swivel pin, oil started to drip from the swivel, showing the effect of even slightly loose swivels. I have taken a break for morning tea and to allow the oil to run out into a tray, otherwise things will get messy when I pull the pin out to remove a shim.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Swaggie
i have been ignoring my wobbles for awhile, i might be doing the same job this weekend
OldBushie
In theory, the seal should be re-centred after adjusting the swivel preloads so the oil needs to be dropped anyway.
Scott
Swaggie
re-centered.......can you enlighten meOriginally Posted by Scouse
RoverLord
This is probably only a theoretical consideration where there is probably only going to be a single, thinnest shim removed. Worth remembering that the position of the swivel housing relative to the ball is determined primarily by the roller bearing at the bottom, which will have virtually no wear - the need for adjustment is almost certainly because of wear on the thrust washer at the top, and compensating for this brings the alignment back to where it was when the swivels were done. (The slight oil leak is due mainly to the vertical play on the tapered roller bearing allowing the seal to move relative to the ball)
Should have mentioned in the original, that although this is on a 110, the situation can be identical on all Series Landrovers plus 90/110/Defender, RRC, D1, which is why I posted in technical chatter not Defender.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
OldBushie
Adjusting the swivel preload can move the actual swivel hub assy up/down slightly.
95% of the time, the seal copes with this but sometimes it's 'just' that little bit extra movement that causes it to leak slightly.
If you look at the recess that the swivel seal sits in, there's quite a bit of movement to allow for new or old bearings. When fitting a new seal, the preloads should be set first, then the seal clamped into position using the securing plate.
Scott
Swaggie
thanks guys
RoverLord
When installing the seal, before tightening the screws on the retaining ring, you need to make sure that it is centred on the ball, that is, with equal pressure all the way round. There is a couple of millimetres slop in the recess it goes in to allow this.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
From memory ...
The Swivel preload test is done with the swivel seal removed
Cheers
Mike
ForumSage
Mike, technically yes if you are using a spring tension gauge and book specs. You can just allow for seal drag when doing it either with a gauge or by hand.
Posting Permissions
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks