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Hey Steve,Quote:
Originally Posted by roverrescue
It's a 1995 Defender with 310,000 km's on it. I noticed that there was a small chunk missing off the bottom of the block (?) so that accounts for some of the metal.
I am in unchartered waters here, so bear with me. What's involved in pulling the big end caps? I will check the Rave cd.
Thanks
Rave will have the torque values and 'purdy pickchas' to show you up from down.
A quick rundown would be:
-sump off
-removed oil pick-up (3 bolts)
-glowies out
-turn crank (clockwise) watching the beauty of a crank in slow motion.
-When no.1 conrod is at BDC evenly lossen the paired conrod big end nuts (15mm 6 point socket)
-wiggle big end cap off of conrod studs.
-slide some 12mm hose over the studs.
-rotate crank a little to clear top bearing shell - carefully slide it out.
-make sure you maintain/remember orientations of all components. upper and lower shells, cap orientation and cap nuts.
-Inspect shells under a good light - maybe post up photies on AULRO
-Repeat for other pots.
-Replacement is a fiddle, check and double check your torque settings on the cap bolts.
-By 300k Id expect to see some wear depending on oil quality/changes/filtering etc etc
-Me being me, if they were worn to copper I would plastigauge a new set of standard shells in and go from there. Might need a mix of 10 thou over and standards to get it within spec?
And if that all sounds like a can of worms, just zip the sump back on and be happy.
S
Thanks Steve. Not too sure what I am doing with that stuff so will see how i go once I get under it and have a look. Might have to get someone who knows what they are doing to show me how it's done.
Cheers
Hi Simon - YES! removing just the front ARB will give you some interesting on road handling. As the rear ARB is still there you've got high roll stiffness compared to the front. This will cause oversteer, particuarly noticable on a Disco or RRC on turn-in when it feels like you're falling onto to the loaded front wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Ploppy
The other effect is a sensitivity to mid corner bumps. Add that to an oversteer tendency and things could rapidly go pear shaped....
chris
No worries Chris. I have decided to leave it on as I did not need to take it off completely to remove the sump, just drop it a little.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobbes
Simon, if you have no real reason to go further than removing the sump to fix a bolt thread, I would leave it at that and leave the crank bearings alone. Especially if your mechanical knowledge is fairly limited- and this is not meant as an insult, just that many on here are, or used to be, in the trade and think nothing of tasks that might get the layman into strife.
The good thing about anti-roll bars is that they limit relative movement of the suspension across the axle. The bad thing about anti-roll bars is that they limit relative movement of the suspension across the axle.
Anti-roll bars are intended to limit relative articulation of the suspension from side to side, in order to improve on-road handling and reduce sway on cornering. They are anathema to off-road performance. They are installed on 4wd vehicles to give an on-road ride more acceptable to the market, at the expense of off-road capability. Up to you whether you leave it or remove it, but if removing, better to remove the rear one as well.
Good advice mate. I would love to learn how to do this eventually though so might try and get my mechanic to do the work and show me how it's done. He is usually pretty open to such things.Quote:
Originally Posted by POD
I have been pretty pleased with my efforts so far on the defender, done a lot more than I have ever done. Thanks mostly to people on the forum.
Geeez, I had better be careful.Quote:
Hi Simon - YES! removing just the front ARB will give you some interesting on road handling. As the rear ARB is still there you've got high roll stiffness compared to the front. This will cause oversteer, particuarly noticable on a Disco or RRC on turn-in when it feels like you're falling onto to the loaded front wheel.
The other effect is a sensitivity to mid corner bumps. Add that to an oversteer tendency and things could rapidly go pear shaped....
chris
Just imagine all those RRC owners DICING WITH DEATH for the 20YEARS they did not have ARBs. In fact they stiill sold them without ARBs to the end of RRC AFAIK in the commercials. They were always an option adopted as standard for the US and Australia. Maybe we are worse drivers.
Of course you take off the rear also.
Also remember that as soon as you put stiffer springs in, you change the whole balance and should perhaps take them off anyway, particularly the rear.
Regards Philip A