Bolt Removal

**Tank** · 4th June 2011, 02:42 PM

Have you tried a set of Stilsons (plumbers pipe wrench), haven't met a bolt they won't undo, Regards Frank.

**101RRS** · 4th June 2011, 02:52 PM

I also use stilsons a lot but in this case you cannot get in there with any sort of spanner or wrench - access from the top of the bolt only, no side access. A half worn angle grinder disk (about 2" across) can just fit - that is why I am able to grind the head off if I have too.

Garry

**Xtreme** · 4th June 2011, 04:25 PM

Have you tried a Metrinch spanner? They grip in the flat s of the bolthead/nut and are excellent to use on damaged/rounded nuts/bolts.

Used one with success a few days ago on a stubborn exhaust bolt.

**101 Ron** · 4th June 2011, 05:02 PM

Hi Garry.
Single Hex drive sockets work well on bolts with worn heads.
If you cut the head off dont weld a nut on the old bolt shaft ...use this
1/2" Drive Stud Extractor NEW | eBay
They dont slip and you get enough torque to break off the bolt shaft if your not carefull.
Tunsten cutters in a die grinder work well to take the head off a bolt in tight place if you can get a hold of one.
.

**101RRS** · 4th June 2011, 05:54 PM

Originally Posted by Xtreme

Have you tried a Metrinch spanner? They grip in the flat s of the bolthead/nut and are excellent to use on damaged/rounded nuts/bolts.

Used one with success a few days ago on a stubborn exhaust bolt.

No room for spanners and such. Must come down from the top of the bolt as there is no room from the side.

Garry

**101RRS** · 4th June 2011, 06:02 PM

Thanks Ron - that is the sort of thing I need - will try the shops tomorrow.

I tried to weld on an old 13mm socket onto the head bolt but it was dark and my helmet would not auto dark and in the tight area it started to fog up.

So I will try again tomorrow.

It is always the little things that give you the irrits.

Garry

**Hoges** · 4th June 2011, 06:04 PM

I'm not familiar with the layout...is there room to get a dremel or right angle drill head in so that you could drill into the bolt head and screw in an "easy out"?

**Xtreme** · 4th June 2011, 06:13 PM

Originally Posted by garrycol

No room for spanners and such. Must come down from the top of the bolt as there is no room from the side.

Garry

Metrinch are also available in sockets.

**LowRanger** · 4th June 2011, 06:36 PM

If it is a 13mm bolt head that is rounded,you should try and belt a 1/2" socket over the rounded head.Preferably use a flank drive socket.As mentioned,the only way to release Loctite is to heat it,use any means,I normally use a small gas flame.As far as quenching is concerned,you need to heat the bolt till it is preferably red,and then douse with water.You need to use a lot of water so that you cool the bolt completely and at one time.Using a water pistol will not work.In 35 years in the trade,I haven't come across too many things that won't budge using this method.

Wayne

**101RRS** · 5th June 2011, 01:30 PM

Its off - thanks for all the advice - in the end most likely as expected some real heat did the trick.

I could not weld on an old socket as it was too long and couldn't control the weld down the hole. So I found a nut that would fit over the old head and I was able to weld this on and off it came with no torque required at all - I guess the heat did it. The diff housing around the pinion seal did get a bit warm but not overly so. Most of the heat seems to travel through the old mount - indeed set the old rubber on fire - not nice as the fuel tank is only about 2" above the flames - but all ended well.

Now to put the new mount in, turn the car around, replace the cam belt, replace the injection pump belt, the serpentine belt, front right CV, clutch slave mount, intermediate exhaust pipe, oil change, oil filter and air filter.

Thanks for the help.

Cheers

Garry

Thread: Bolt Removal

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