Thread: 3.9 v8 just stopped. No throttle response...

Originally Posted by DiscoDevil

The d1 went to a 400-800rpm rolling dying idle with zero throttle response. I pulled over and turned it off. Restart, same thing, restart again and it's all good.

Repeated this process four times on my drive home.

Can anyone tell me where to start looking?

Bit of history it's done 192,000klm, checked the maf the other day and got 0.5v, otherwise she runs really well. I have been discussing selling it in favor of a diesel for a round oz trip so I may have hurt it's feelings??

Thank for any input cheers!

Maybe a dying fuel pump, at that sort of distance. When they get old, they can go intermittently. Also check the connectors in the loom to the petrol pump for blackened connection plugs. The pump assembly is easily accessed under the back floor carpet and a VN Commodore pump kit can be used (Bosch part number BFP772)

Thanks for that, I pulled out the carpet and it's all good in there,, sprayed some contact cleaner and it works fine. I'll replace the fuel filter next. Wouldn't the pump just be dead or alive, not intermitently dying?

Should I test the tps? Or anything else? Thanks for your help

Originally Posted by DiscoDevil

Thanks for that, I pulled out the carpet and it's all good in there,, sprayed some contact cleaner and it works fine. I'll replace the fuel filter next. Wouldn't the pump just be dead or alive, not intermitently dying?

Should I test the tps? Or anything else? Thanks for your help

Pumps with worn brushes stop intermittently. A thump on the fuel tank often gets them going again. Listening for the pump running is always a good idea, it should be faintly audible just after you operate the starter. A worn pump is usually noisier and draws more current than a new one, like 10 amps instead of 6 amps. I have replaced a pump based on high current measurements before. That is why they kill the nylon connector plugs.

As for other bits, contact cleaner might help, especially the MAF connector, and testing is always a good idea. Typical voltages for TPS and MAF should be on the forum "good oil" pages somewhere.

Thanks for that, while I'm waiting for a new pump to be sent through a volcano cloud I checked a few things.

The volts t the pump were a healthy 13.3 but I didn't measure the amps given I'd have to cut into the wires. I can always hear the pump on turning the ignition on, then it's not noticeable.

I checked and cleaned the maf, it was 0.5v set it to 1.3v
Checked tps, cleaned it and set to 0.34 as per the details on the PDF I found.

She runs sweeter than ever in the driveway, smooth hassle free. Hopefully a new pump and filter will destroy this gremlin.

Thanks again

Pump current can easily be measured by removing the fuel pump relay, inserting the meter probes into the 30 and 87 holes. The pump should run continuously while the ammeter is in place. Pin numbers should be marked on the relay.

Ok the pump is using 5amps. After a thirty minute drive no problems. The pump was then reading 5.5amps and the relay was warm, quite normal I presume.

So I cleaned the power terminals on the coil, a bit of white stuff, and made them fit tightly, other than that it seems ok ATM.

I got the new pump and I guess ill put it in tomorrow. Not sure if something else might be at work here thou

I'll update after this weekends mission up the highlands. Cheers!