Thread: 300tdi flywheel locking tool

I've heard of garages using a cold chisel ground and wedged in there

It's only a 5mm slot in the f/wheel, I used a 6mm socket head cap screw machined down to 5mm on the end and i thread it into a BSP plug threaded into the bell housing.

I made the tool that bolts to the crank pulley to lock the crank and undo the front bolt.

Originally Posted by rick130

I've heard of garages using a cold chisel ground and wedged in there

It's only a 5mm slot in the f/wheel, I used a 6mm socket head cap screw machined down to 5mm on the end and i tread it into a BSP plug threaded into the bell housing.

I made the tool that bolts to the crank pulley to lock the crank and undo the front bolt.

Exactly what I did, though I think I used a softer bolt, it's still sitting in the console since 2009, ready for next timing belt change. I seem to recall I used a 7/16th drill bit to lock the fuel pump.

Originally Posted by rick130

I've heard of garages using a cold chisel ground and wedged in there

It's only a 5mm slot in the f/wheel, I used a 6mm socket head cap screw machined down to 5mm on the end and i thread it into a BSP plug threaded into the bell housing.

I made the tool that bolts to the crank pulley to lock the crank and undo the front bolt.

The TDC alignment slot in the flywheel is not normally used for undoing/doing up the crankshaft bolt as it is as stated about 5mm.

However if you keep turning the flywheel around about a quarter of a turn there is another slot that is about 6.5mm -7mm (from memory) that is said can be used for locking the flywheel to do it up.

The other option is to make/buy the locking tool that bolts up to the harmonic balance.

Originally Posted by MinniTheMoocha

The TDC alignment slot in the flywheel is not normally used for undoing/doing up the crankshaft bolt as it is as stated about 5mm.

However if you keep turning the flywheel around about a quarter of a turn there is another slot that is about 6.5mm -7mm (from memory) that is said can be used for locking the flywheel to do it up.

The other option is to make/buy the locking tool that bolts up to the harmonic balance.

Yep, forgot about that one.

Have to do a timing belt change soon, so the old locking tool comes out of the shed.

provided that the bolt is HT steel, they work just fine. I've done 3 belt changes without noticeable effect on the bolt. Two things: Use a thick washer with the crank bolt to account for stretching (So you can torque it correctly) and make sure bolt is removed before starting. It sounds strange but leave yourself a note somewhere near the steering wheel to remove bolt.

i have used these tools on my 300TDi when doing a timing belt change. i got mine off eBay, they worked okay but i have found since then (redid valve clearance settings) that the injector pump pin supplied is 10mm and a 9mm drill bit works excellently and the flywheel holding bolt is also too big for the hole/notch so what i did was centrally lined up the notch in the hole by "eye" (actually a mirror and torch) and then inserted the tool to wedge flywheel and used the 9mm drill bit for the pump.
oh and to answer your original question i had another tool that bolted to the crankshaft pulley while i rattled off the bolt, but the flywheel tool seemed to hold quite well otherwise
good luck

Used this tool to re torque crank bolt today - worked good, but used h/brake and in gear for undo

Brett

Hi All
I am in the middle of doing this job and am having a real battle undoing the bolt!

First dumb question Is the thread left or right hand thread? I assume it is left hand
Secondly how to hold it all still when hand brake difflock lowrange and footbrake together do not hold?
Cheers guys