wheel bearings disco1 help please

**edddo** · 2nd July 2011, 10:40 AM

Changing the wheel bearings on the 98 tdi today - got everything I need and just got into it. All going smoothly done the first wheel ( ps rear) and just putting the hub back on and bugger me if it simply wont go on. WTF? So I see that its the WB itself that wont slide over the shaft. It is the right one per the box ( Timkin LM603049). So I check how the old one slides on nicely - take another new one out of the box - measure the internal diameter and they are the same per my dodgy micrometer thing. Then I try the new one on the shaft and absolutely no go - it gets stuck half on then I have to tap it off.

So any advice or tips please as I need to get this done this weekend.

****ed off

thanks

**edddo** · 2nd July 2011, 10:54 AM

its ok..violence was the answer..thx

McDisco · 2nd July 2011, 07:48 PM

If you dont have the bearing cup seated right sometimes it isnt lined up right so your trying to get the axle through on an angle. Thats what I found at least when I did mine last.

Angus

**edddo** · 2nd July 2011, 08:17 PM

Well I got 3 out of 4 WB's done today but I had a nagging doubt about fitting the RTC 3511 seals. They have a lip on them that I assumed is to mate with the hub surface and locate the seal at the correct depth. But I wondered about the protrusion of the inner lip outside the hub surface by about 3 mm.

I have just done some searchng and suspect that I should have driven the seals in another 3 mm so that there was no protrusion. This looks simply weird to me - I mean wtf is the lip for if not to locate the seal...if the lip is to live inside the hub surely it shouldnt exist??

Not a happy chappy if I have to pull the hubs again

Can someone shed some light on this? I need the car tomorrow.

thx

**langy** · 2nd July 2011, 10:42 PM

You've obviously seen this thread:
Defender hub seals.

Justinc is pretty on the ball when it comes to these things.

But, just to test- when you do number 4, smear some grease on the hub and it will tell you where the outer (ie protruding) seal ends up. You can compare it to the track of the previous seal.

Remember, the RTC3511 was built for the earlier RR axles. The Disco axle has had some changes to the dimensions of the bearings.

**edddo** · 3rd July 2011, 05:49 AM

No Langy I hadnt seen that - I had looked at the WB tutorials etc bit I dont think there was specific mention installation of the rtc seal specifically.

ho freaking hum

off they come again

thanks mate

**Blknight.aus** · 3rd July 2011, 07:51 AM

dont stress them not being in far enough, they will press in to their minimum clearance and the slinger will deform it just wont have a very long life.

more pertinant is did you grease the running face of the seal?

correct setting depth is 4mm but I always set them so the slinger is proud by about .5-1mm

**edddo** · 3rd July 2011, 10:17 AM

OK just taken her for a short run - after a 10k drive with speeds up to 110 how hot should the hubs be if I have set them up ok? - I have one wheel not done yet- the ones I have done are noticably warmer to the touch. Maybe 40 deg C?

**langy** · 3rd July 2011, 11:20 AM

getting the hubs right with correct preload is important - Jack up each wheel and see if there is the slightest hint of play in the wheel. If not, it pays to re-do it so there is. Messy I know, but better in long run.

**Blknight.aus** · 3rd July 2011, 11:34 AM

how warm they get depends on which method you used to get them set, dont forget that you also have the brakes shedding heat into the hubs.

If all hubs are the same temp and you havent completely filled the hubs with grease then you're ok.

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