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Thread: 300Tdi - prepping a new head, etc...

  1. #1
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    300Tdi - prepping a new head, etc...

    What is the best way to remove the dowels that the injector clamps sit on? Or have others just bought new dowels?

    How many dowels should the mating face of the head have? Mine only has one at the rear - is one missing?

    Is there an easy way to fix the fan pulley in position to undo the fan nut (like on a 200Tdi)?

  2. #2
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    the easy way is to double nut them out...

    put one nut on, wind it in far enough to get a second nut on top of it.
    wind a second nut in, hold the first nut then tighten up the second, now undo the first nut and it should undo the dowel.

    if its been put together by someone like me a little heat from a hot air gun or leaving the head in the sun for a couple of hours to soften up the loctite will help.

    if the serpentine belt is still on put the VC spanner onto the bolt then smack it in the direction of undo with a rubber mallet. If the belt is off or has no tension get a bit of 4mm plate steel strapping (4mm thick, 25ishmm wide and about 300 long) drill about a 12mm hole in it close to the edge, slide that hole over one of the heads of the nuts and then use that to stop the pully from turning as you undo the bolt (you may need to offset the hole to get it onto one of the bolts.) if you cant get it to hold on just one bolt head you will need to profile the bit of steel and then drill a second hole in it to locate on a second bolt.

    2 dowels from memory.
    Dave

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    the easy way is to double nut them out...
    Thanks Dave, but I am talking about the injector dowels, not the studs. I already removed all studs yesterday using the double nut method, and have loctited them into the new head.

    I assume vice grips (gently) and some heat will work on the dowels?

  4. #4
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    Try this for holding the waterpump pulley. I got it from supercheap some years ago- don't know if they stock them now.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the replies so far.

    Also - the AC tensioner/idler bearing - does anyone have a part number? Looks like it is easy to replace the bearing rather than the whole unit?

  6. #6
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    Generic type 6203. (Also used for main tensioner) Whilst the metal shielded sides version has a higher RPM rating, the rubber sealed type resists mud/water better.(And you can use a grease needle to add grease down the track)

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