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Thread: Series III 2.25 DIESEL questions

  1. 24th August 2011, 08:20 PM #11
    Ratel10mm
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    Thanks John. Since I have the jack handle, I suppose I'd better see if I can find a correct jack then.

    It came without a wheel nut spanner of any description, so I got a Disco one from a local breaker's. Dunno if they're the same design - looks like it'll take my weight on it though! And I've seen & used worse!

    Of course, I haven't actually used it yet.

    This leads into another question - what was in the original hand tool kit? Or didn't SIII's come with them? No doubt it's a question that been asked lots of times before, but my search powers are weak & I've failed miserably to find the answer.

    And finally for tonight, does anyone have an owner's manual (not the service workshop manual) I could copy, or know where I can get one please? I've found one online for a Series I, but none so far for a 3, or for a 2 or 2a for that matter.
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  2. 25th August 2011, 06:26 AM #12
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    JDNSW
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    If you look at the top bar on this page you will see "shop". In here Dave (Incisor) sells "Rave CDs" that include all the required manuals.

    I think the tools supplied varied over time, but from memory, the (probably)complete set that came with a S3 I bought for parts was:-

    jack, wheel spanner, crank handle, and a flimsy plastic tool roll containing several open end spanners, both Whitworth and AF, a square key for various level plugs and a screwdriver and pliers.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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  3. 27th August 2011, 11:51 AM #13
    Ratel10mm
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    Cheers John.

    So, does anyone have a list of the tools from the tool roll - sizes etc?
    These days almost all my tools are metric or SAE, and anyway I'd like to have a set of tools on board & the factory supplied kit seems as good a place to start as any.
    Yes I can just buy a set of spanners, etc. however it seems a waste to spend on tools that aren't required.
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  4. 27th August 2011, 02:53 PM #14
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    Blknight.aus
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    from memory....

    the tool roll contained
    a flat head
    a phillips head
    a 3/8 7/16 open ender
    a 1/2 9/16 open ender
    a 5/8 11/16 open ender
    1+1/16th wheel nut spanner with a prying tool on the other end
    a spark plug spanner (of either the tube spanner with tommy bar or the handled variety)
    a pair of combo pliers
    a work light
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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  5. 27th August 2011, 07:16 PM #15
    Ratel10mm
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    BRILLIANT! Thanks Dave!
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  6. 27th August 2011, 07:53 PM #16
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    Blknight.aus
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    gotta warn ya, thats just the bare basics, it lets you do the brake adjustment, the rockers, change a tyre and thats about it...

    I forgot to mention other things that are part of the vehicle but not in the tool roll like the crank handle, the jack.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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  7. 28th August 2011, 01:00 PM #17
    Ratel10mm
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    Oh, of course.
    But this will be just a small-ish set for getting on-the-road repairs done (hopefully).
    Chemical metal, gasket compound, sikalfex, cable ties are all on the list already.

    So as it's a sunny afternoon right now, I'm getting back into it.

    VERY annoyed that having poured some oil into the air filter bowl, I've found leaks into the centre section! After all that work supposedly fixing the leaks! AARRGGHH!!!
    I'm presuming this section needs to stay dry, to stop oil entrainment causing an engine runaway. Am I correct though?

    I've gone & got some Selleys Metallic Cement which I'll use to fix the bowl once & for all - or buy a replacement! :P It says it's suitable for temporary petrol tank repairs & is resistant to oils & petrol. Well, I guess we'll find out after I attempt a re-repair of the main diesel tank with it as well. Unless anyone has a better method or product for that task?
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  8. 28th August 2011, 01:06 PM #18
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
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    come and swap it for one of my sparies.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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  9. 30th August 2011, 09:01 PM #19
    Ratel10mm
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    Thanks for the kind offer Dave, I'll send you a PM.
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  10. 27th September 2011, 09:08 PM #20
    Ratel10mm
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    So, can anyone please tell me what the correct orientation of the brakes are? My front has the brake cylinders (11", don't know for sure how to tell if they're for the 4 cyl. or 6 cyl. engine type) top & bottom, and some bright spark has ended up putting the bleed nipple tight behind the steering linkage connection! Is this actually correct, or should the cylinders be front & rear as per the exploded diagrams in the manual?
    I can't see that the orientation would have any effect on brake performance, but figure if they're supposed to be front & rear, then the bleed nipple will be easier / possible to get at.
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