Thread: Painting guards

I've used a bitumen based paint (brushed on) for underneath my guards and under the seat boxes - basically to deaden noise and to protect from the elements (e.g - mud etc when 4 wheeling).

It's black but it works well because it's underneath the vehicle and under the guards/around the tyre.


Cheers
Chris

Thanks Chris.

Sounds like the go cheers.

Today I also put a Dingo mini digger with hydraulic downforce of 3400psi on the back of the chassis which flattened out the rear springs.

I measured the prop shaft distance and it will fit easily. After I fit the tub and other bits and pieces I will put the shocks and check straps on and things should be okay.

Thanks for the replies.
Regards John

For my S3, the exposed parts of the chassis, ie side outriggers, petrol tank, rear x member, all being done in black killrust. Diffs and driveshafts are almost good enough not to need it so will probably leave as they are. The rest of the chassis and under the guards and body will be done with fish oil spray (the clear stuff that dries like a paint) and through the use of a WD40 nozzle with the tube, will be applied to the inside of the chassis parts as well (my chassis is rust free and I want to keep it that way), most of the chassis is still in the original paint or possibly an older repaint but in nice condition. Plus the middle areas have the standard land rover rust protection system.

I thought about sound deadening but have not really looked too hard into it. If I wash under my guards most of the ally is still clean and shiny (gotta love the birmabright).

The obvious downside to painting under the guards, seatbox and body would be the need to use an etch primer on the aluminium first otherwise the paint will not last 5 minutes.