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Thread: How do you tell if shockies are worn?

  1. #1
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    Question How do you tell if shockies are worn?

    This afternoon I replaced the front and rear shock absorbers on a mates Discovery 1 for him. His old ones were shagged, could tell when driving and once removed and depressed 20 minutes later they still hadn't pushed themselves back out - vehicle had done 280,000kms and they looked like the original ones. New units are Repco Maxitracks and made a huge difference!

    But this got me wondering. How do you tell when they are just worn/aged, but not completely shagged? For example my vehicle is a 2003 Discovery 2 HSE with the ACE system. The suspension is raised 2", but I'm not sure that the shock absorbers were replaced when this was done, which means they may have 180,000kms on them already (although they look reasonable clean and unmarked). Is there a method to testing them?

  2. #2
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    If they were original they wouldn't "20 minutes later they still hadn't pushed themselves back out" as they aren't gas pressurised

    The OE D1/Defender dampers were twin tube hydraulic without any gas pressurisation.

    In a gas pressurised damper the gas doesn't provide any damping, all damping on a modern damper is hydraulic, so even if a twin tube gas pressurised damper loses it's nitrogen it can still work effectively if it hasn't lost any oil or isn't worn or broken internally.

    A mono tube damper such as a Bilstein won't work adequately if it loses it's gas charge, but it's highly likely it's lost it's hydraulic fluid as well.
    It's just the way they are designed/built.

    For the average punter checking shock absorbers/dampers is nigh on impossible, even experienced race car drivers can't often pick a dying shock.
    The only surefire way is to remove a damper and dyno it.
    Mostly you replace on mileage/time unless you are experienced at setting up suspensions.

  3. #3
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    bounce on the bull bar or tow hitch.

    more than one oscillation (up down then return to normal height) is excessive.

    depending on how firm the shockies were to start with anything more than a return to the rest position may be excessive
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  4. #4
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    I had a 74 Galant and took the shockies off it for a while - made no difference - likewise try bouncing a 101 - ain't going to happen.

    I find the best way is to get a mate to drive your car along a B road at about 100kph. Follow along in another car and observe the motion of each wheel in turn. If the wheel tracks along with no obvious bounce then the shockie is OK - certainly for on road use. If there is a is a bit of bounce or a lot then the shockies have failed or are on the way out.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
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    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #5
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    Speed humps are useful for shocker testing. If the car does a few wallows after the bump they are probably stuffed. Mind you a top rate shocker can wear to be a just adequate shocker without being actually failed. It all depends on how you want to drive the beast.

  6. #6
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    A few years ago due to financial limitations, I repaced the D1 shockies with a cheap pair. Made an enormous difference, it now stayed on course and didn't wallow all over the road. Bounce test was the same as the 101, didn't happen. Now they are worn out and the new konis are waiting to be fitted.

  7. #7
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    shockies

    What if on the speed hump test there is banging noise coming from the rear end?
    The girlfriends Honda with 220,000kms does that.

    Thanks for the info.
    Cheers

  8. #8
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    the honda is rooted and needs to be replaced.

    Id recommend a D1.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    shockies

    I don't reckon she is going to fall for that one from me, she is amazed how much money I pour into the '93 classic.

    mikm

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by onemore View Post
    What if on the speed hump test there is banging noise coming from the rear end?
    My Disco does that. Often at low speeds there is quiet a violent bang noise, but not always, hard to get it to happen when I want it. I still haven't figure out what it is...

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