Thread: any tips on opening up D2 Td5 ECU to get oil out...

I used a small screwdriver to "dig" at the glue while using a wider one to split the housings.
It's not the easiest job and some don't recommend to do it.
I also sustained some damage to the covers , might be why they say it's unservicable
I resealed mine with red sensor safe salastic.

Dont open it unless you are really sure there is oil in there. If you need to open it you may need a sharp knife to cut the sealant. The unit is sealed and oild does not get into the ECU itself, just the plug as the plug is sealed from the ecu and the pins extruding from it are male so oil can not get in through them.
I have not seen any that oil gets into the ecu.
Have you sealed the harness itself?
I cleaned my old one and used Loctite RTV Blue Max for the interim to get me through. New harness has arrived and waiting for three bond 1207B to arrive to seal up wires and plug area.
There are lots of post on oil in ecu, you should have done a search first.

I've seen plenty of posts about oil in loom and ECU plug, but don't recall seeing anything about oil within the actual ECU. There must be oil in the ECU for oil to be in the internal bolt thread and I'd be curious to know of anyone else who has found oil within the ECU?

nope, no oil in my ecu although I did go to the effort of opening the thing up..

My advice, change your injector harness, clean up your wiring loom and red ecu plug over the following few weeks until there is no further sign of oil; if your engine is running fine then there's your answer - no oil in your ecu.

In hindsight I should only have opened my ecu lid after performing the above and only if the engine continued to exhibit problems - but hey, I wanted to see what was inside

thanks Crossy - have already done all those things, but if there's oil already in the ECU, then those things won't help...and engine still doesn't rev smoothly...so think I'll just have to try to open the thing up carefully and not bend it up too badly...

Have you checked the plugs on the crank sensor for oil?

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Tombie - haven't checked that sensor for a while so will do so. I'm assuming if CAS itself is faulty that the motor doesn't start at all. I've replaced MAF, turbo boost modulator and checked functioning of TPS. I'm hoping that occasional roughness and inability to rev past 2500rpm (sometimes it is super smooth and zooms through 2500rpm) can finally be resolved as being due to oil in the ECU, but we shall see. The fact that it is intermittent suggests that it might be an oil contamination issue rather than a completely buggered sensor...

If yours is an early D2 I can post you a stock ECU to check if it runs smooth.

Do you have Nanocom etc?

Failure to rev can be fuel pressure, sticking wastegate or Throttle assembly issues too.