-
13th September 2011, 06:53 PM
#1
ABS Problem
My ABS light on my D1 has been on for about six months. I decided to do something about it today. I did the diagnostics and it showed up as both front wheel sensors.
I checked the left one with multimeter and it checked ok. The instructions said to check sensor air gap by pushing sensor until it touches the exciter ring. I gave it a light tap with a hammer and it moved in, how much is hard to gauge but I would say 3 to 4 mm. I then did the same with the RH side and same, it moved a similar amount.
I cleared the faults and went for a drive. Perfect until about 300 metres down the road and the light comes on. I rechecked the fault and this time just RHF. I gave it a tap with the hammer and it moved. Cleared the faults, went for a drive and the same thing, about 300 meters and light comes on again.
Any ideas as to why the sensor seems to be knocked out?
Dave.
-
13th September 2011, 07:56 PM
#2
Hi Dave,
More than likely a loose wheel bearing, OR the needle roller brg that locates the CV shaft in the stub is worn/ loose.
I'd go with the wheel brg first.
JC
-
13th September 2011, 08:07 PM
#3
Thanks Justin. I did think of that. There is a very small amount of play in the bearings, to me not enough to warrant the work to adjust if it was a non ABS, but in this case I will tighten them and see what happens. I will report my findings for the benefit of others.
Dave.
-
13th September 2011, 08:18 PM
#4
Dave,
I have seen some ABS equipped D1's with heaps of WB play but no sensor issues, others require almost NO play or the light will go on. Another point, SOMETIMES the excessive airgap fault code CAN also mean a sensor is intermittently faulty.
JC
-
13th September 2011, 08:33 PM
#5
It had crossed my mind as to whether an old or faulty sensor would not work with the same gap as a new one. Justin, is this what you are suggesting.
Dave.
-
14th September 2011, 08:26 AM
#6
I have just been looking at pictures of CV joints. I see that the ABS ring is part of the CV. My CV's are worn, they rattle on full lock, quite loud when centre diff is locked.
Do/can worn CV's when driving straight, spin out of round and knock the ABS sensor?
Dave.
-
14th September 2011, 11:22 AM
#7
YES.
JC
-
14th September 2011, 01:25 PM
#8
Why then is there no drive line vibration?
Dave.
-
14th September 2011, 06:23 PM
#9
I have adjusted the wheel bearing and it seems to have solved that problem.
My next problem. Firstly, when I drive off the ABS light goes out at about 7 kph, as it should. When I stop should it come back on or does it just do this from the first drive off after starting vehicle. I have been driving with the light stuck on for so long I have forgotten. In my case it stays off until I switch off and restart the engine
Secondly I am still having problems with my braking. Some times when braking the pedal feels like the ABS is activating even when there is no wheel lock up. When this happens the stopping distance is increased. This seems to have corrected itself since fixing wheel sensor problem and clearing fault.
What is now happening is(and this is intermittent) when braking it feels like the ABS pump is working but pumping back at the pedal. The pedal hardens up with spring and grinding type noises. When I push really hard I overcome it and braking returns to normal.
I suspect this is a dodgy ABS pump but before I source another one is there anything else it could be and checks I can make?
When I do a self test it shows up as all good.
Also are V8 and TDI ABS pumps the same?
Dave.
-
16th September 2011, 06:15 PM
#10
I had a similar problem like that in my 1999 disco, when I bought it it had standard mags which I consider little wide, I changed to standard steel wheels of a earlier model and the problem went away, I put it down to wide wheels.
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
|
Search All the Web!
|
Bookmarks