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Not having had a 110 swivel apart, but, on an rr there is no need for a c clip, nor do you use when when fitting 110 cv's
Axle is kept from floating into the spider gears from the bronze bush on the axle, cv is captive from spline depth and then bush or bearing, depending on model and cv in the stub axle
In that case Dave would best be advised when performing this task to hold the shafts in a vice, instead of between his legs.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
Wagoo.
RangeRovers had a machined surface inside the swivel ball for the bronze bush/spacer to seat against. Can't remember if 110s have the same, or even if Keiths shafts are machined to accept the bush.Quote:
Originally Posted by rovercare
Wagoo.
Don't laugh. Fingers aren't the only things I've almost lost :oQuote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
I have heard from Keith. It sounds like he supplies new snap rings with his set ups and they are usually taped inside the lid of the CV box. I am using the 110 County CVs and only ordered a Truetrac, axles and flanges. I didn't get the snap rings.
I'm not sure where you are supposed to measure the depth of the groove from, but I have taken it from the base of the splines to the base of the groove, ie the shortest distance. My reasoning is that the snap ring has to fit into this space (or most of it does) to get inside the CV. The grooves on my axle are just over 1mm deep as far as I can tell. The factory axles have a groove which is quite a bit deeper.
I'm not sure whether there is anything which would otherwise prevent the axle moving inwards, but I suspect not. Isuzurover knows of at least one instance where an axle in a 110 moved too far inboard and chewed its splines.
Just got back from Driveline Services. They were able to confirm that the groove for the snap ring is way too shallow. Probably just bad luck. I decided to just get them to machine the groove to a sufficient depth - hopefully I'll be able to pick them up within 24 hours and finish the front end.
Then I can start replacing the entire rear diff & most of the braking system. Then there's most of the wiring. Then there's............:(
man will be dead before he gets a ride in this thing...
PULL YA FINGER OUT!
:D:D:D:D:D:D
Well I have been a tad busy. Had a month out of the country a while back, as well as some very busy months at work. In September I did over 100 hours overtime (unpaid, of course :mad:).Quote:
Originally Posted by incisor
Unfortunately I seem to have a knack for finding stuff that is worn out and tend to upgrade or rebuild to as new spec - can't see the point of fixing something twice. I also seem to be labouring under some sort of curse. How can it take 3 goes at getting a clutch that both fits and works?
Eventually I'll add to my "Members' Rides" thread but I can't just yet. It hasn't turned a wheel in over a year as far as I recall so I can't really call it a "ride". It should just be a couple of months now. Of course, I've been saying that since Easter. :D
DaveQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave_S
Glad to hear that you have had the problem properly diagnosed and having it rectified properly,hopefully at not too much expense:eek:
Wayne
I know you've got it sorted now, but out of interest is the diameter of the axle at the diff end slightly larger than the root of the spline?
If it is, then that should prevent the axle going too far into the diff side gear anyway. I'm pretty sure that the Longtracks set I fitted tonight were like that.
Steve
Not sure Steve - I pick them up in the morning. I see your point, but as Rovertracks suggest fitting a circlip I'd probably do so anyway. In any case they have been fitted with the circlips now anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
I was about to say it will be nice to put the front end back together tomorrow, but I don't want to jinx myself :twisted: