Problem fitting Rovertracks Axles - Ideas?

As a bit of an update, I got the axles back and fitted the short side, but couldn't get the long side to fit. The splines and about 8 inches of axle will go through the chrome ball into the casing but then it stops dead. I've tried "persuading" it, but no luck. My guess is that the axle increases very slightly in diameter at that point and the chrome ball may be a bit tight to start with. Isuzurover reckons tolerances vary markedly at times and I have a couple of spare chrome balls on a spare front end (naturally I will have to spend a day dismantling my garage to get to them :().

Also, Keith from Rovertracks has kindly offered to pay for the machining done to fit the snap rings (I didn't ask). He's a really good guy to deal with.

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How can it take 3 goes at getting a clutch that both fits and works?

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Don't feel too bad. That's normal for some of us regardless of what part of the car it is!!! :p

I think I had to remove the seals in the axle tube to get Keiths axles to fit my county,have your old axles got machined seal surfaces on them?If so what is their dia. compared to keiths.Also did you have to fit the spacing collar on the axle before the cv's?

I used Diff Lapping & Repairs in Boothby St Kedron to fit my trutrack and axles. They might be able to help. 33594701.

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Originally Posted by yt110

I think I had to remove the seals in the axle tube to get Keiths axles to fit my county,have your old axles got machined seal surfaces on them?If so what is their dia. compared to keiths.Also did you have to fit the spacing collar on the axle before the cv's?

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Didn't fit the spacing collars to the axles. I'll dig out a couple of surplus chrome balls and see if they will work.

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Originally Posted by Dave_S

Didn't fit the spacing collars to the axles. I'll dig out a couple of surplus chrome balls and see if they will work.

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Buying a cheap vernier from bunnings or similar would help reduce trial and error.

Turns out I had a cheap vernier in a drawer. A mechanic friend came over on Sunday and we worked out that the long axle diameter increases slightly a few inches past the splines at the centre end. We tried a good spare chrome ball, but there was no way it was going to fit.

We decided the best thing to do would be to machine down the axle a bit. I called Driveline services on Monday but they are a bit concerned about the hardness of the steel. Then again, they didn't seem to have any trouble with the snap ring groove, so maybe they are just being cautious. I'll probably courier it to them along with the chrome ball to see if they can do anything with it later this week.

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Originally Posted by Dave_S

Turns out I had a cheap vernier in a drawer. A mechanic friend came over on Sunday and we worked out that the long axle diameter increases slightly a few inches past the splines at the centre end. We tried a good spare chrome ball, but there was no way it was going to fit.

We decided the best thing to do would be to machine down the axle a bit. I called Driveline services on Monday but they are a bit concerned about the hardness of the steel. Then again, they didn't seem to have any trouble with the snap ring groove, so maybe they are just being cautious. I'll probably courier it to them along with the chrome ball to see if they can do anything with it later this week.

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That is a bugger!

Might be a good idea to check with Keith that they are through hardened (as opposed to surface/induction hardened). If the former, then machining should pose no problems.

Keith's axle shop must have had the apprentice make those axles!

I have machined longfield CVs down without any major issues. Just need to use tungsten or diamond tipped tools.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

That is a bugger!

Might be a good idea to check with Keith that they are through hardened (as opposed to surface/induction hardened). If the former, then machining should pose no problems.

Keith's axle shop must have had the apprentice make those axles!

I have machined longfield CVs down without any major issues. Just need to use tungsten or diamond tipped tools.

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I checked with Keith as suggested and he told me the axles were surface hardened. Tried a spare chrome ball but it was obvious it wasn't going to fit. Eventually managed to get the axle and a chrome ball to a machine shop and they skimmed the inside of the ball a little. It was probably only just under a millimetre, but it was necessary. I should be able to put the front end back together fairly quickly now.

In the meantime I managed to stick a new disc braked, Maxi'd axle under the back end. Can't wait to start bending up the new brake pipes :eek:

I've had my Rovertracks axles installed for a while, but due to my ATB failing had to remove and replace. I and TerryO had tried to remove the short axle on the side of the road, now I know why everything was locked solid.

Long axle:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/790.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/791.jpg

The short axle had less wear and went in okay with a quick linish on ball and axle. The long shaft was just not going to happen-same change in diameter that Dave S found a few inches from the seal location. In the end I ground the swivel ball throat to get it to fit, using a chainsaw sharpener stone in a dremel, linishing the axle and greasing everything thoroughly.
When these axles were first installed (by a professional), they must have been fit CV end first, then CV put on after the fact.