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Thread: Swivel Hub Preload and shims

  1. #21
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by toc_bat View Post
    I read somewhere that the swivel housings were recommended to be filled with oil, this was prone to leaking so the later recommendation is the one shot grease method. Is this true? What do people use? Both my owners manual and workshop manual state EP80 or 90 oil.

    Also if the whole thing is filled with oil, why would you pack the bearings and cv joint with grease? Isn't the oil bath there to lubricate these?

    bye all
    From 1948 swivels were supposed to be filled with oil. From about 1993? this was replaced with so called "one shot" oil or "semiliquid grease", and this can be used for earlier Landrovers as well. never use ordinary grease, as the top bush or bearing will have a short life, as will the CV or U-joint. The grease packing of the wheel bearings is to provide initial lubrication on assembly - up to about Series 2, this was not specified, but there was a filler plug in the drive flange to allow you to fill the bearings with 1/4pint of oil on assembly.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #22
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toc_bat View Post
    thanks for the informative replies, when i 'changed' the swivel pin fluid i realised they were almost dry, maybe 50ml in each, and after filling up one of them has a minor leak so the next thing is to try to seal the leaks, and hence i suspect maybe the bearings will need attention or replacement, are both the top and bottom the 606666 bearings?

    bye and thanks again
    The swivel seal (the large one) will leak if there is any play in the bearings, so this may be the problem.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #23
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    well i did it this afternoon, stripped one of the swivels, the one with the more prominent leak. Interestingly the leakier one had very slight freeplay in the system when I rocked the wheel. The other one doesnt even drip on the ground more of a weep and it has considerable freeplay.

    This is what I found,

    The tapered rollers are perfect, no pitting or brinnelling or noticeable wear or roughness. The ball had a bit of a gouge taken out of it, possibly in some accident or maybe the steering lock was not set up right, there were also coils of steel at the bottom, looked very much like bits of helicoil insert.

    Also there was no gasket between the seal and the seal retaining plate. In my manual and various online fiches there should be a gasket. But i note of all the kits for sale on ebay, none has this gasket despite having all the other gaskets and seals.

    The seal was very hard, and is not an interefernece fit in the housing, in fact there is quite a gap between the housing and the seal, either it has shrunk or a gasket should have been fitted.

    I suspect that the rocking I felt when i tested the wheel came from loose wheel bearings and not the swivel bearings. I just went and tried the other wheel when it rocks it is moving independently of the swivel.

    bye for now

    PS Bearing Industries in Yennora have a listing for a kit for both swivels, all the bearings, oil seals (6 oil seals all up i think) and gaskets for $180.

  4. #24
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    by the way the bearings in mine are Timken 11590, which is a standard size, Bearing Industries have NSK ones for $16.50. Much cheaper than any land rover place I think. In fact these bearing suppliers have consistently been the cheapest and most knowledgeable in the last 15-20 years that I have been mucking around with bikes and cars, very often when another bearing shop has told me that the bearing or seal I have doesn't exist, they will often have it on their shelf or know who to order it from. PS SKF make the same bearing, in fact they all use the same number, 11590.

  5. #25
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    Ok, as I started this thread, I'm now circling back with an update.

    The root cause of the issue was rubber panhard bushes that were shot, despite being 3 months old. I suspect that when I fitted them, I had the vehicle jacked up and when the bolts were tightened, they loaded the bush in the wrong place leading tube to delaminate from the bush when the vehicle lowered to the correct height. This delamination led to play in the bushes.

    Interestingly, the vehicle did not exhibit any death wobble when towing my 900Kg camper trailer. When the trailer was removed, the death wobble was encountered on potholes at speeds over 60kmh. The loaded trailer was doing something to the physics of the vehicle.

    I replaced the panhards with superpro bushes (previous good experience with them and much easier to change in/out when the time comes again.

    I bought the parts to rebuild the swivel housings and it took about 3 hours to do the side with the least preload. The bearings were not brinelled so I am yet to do the second side. The vehicle drives great.

    After eliminating the issues and roadtesting, I finally replaced the steering damper with a Terrafirma RTC type.
    '95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
    '85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
    '76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)

  6. #26
    McDisco Guest
    Good to hear you have it sorted mate. I had the same diagnosis issues with my rangie. I started with the panhard bushes, then replaced the dampener, tightened wheel bearings, then rebuilt the hubs, drilled and rotated the swivels and adjusted the swivel preload, corrected the alignment, replaced the tie rod ends and it finally tracks true and doesn't wobble. So many possible causes to look at. Each change improved it further. Only have to adjust the steering box for play now...

    Angus

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