You should be able to check it by removing the inspection plate on your transfer case. Someone more knowledgeable than I will be along I'm sure. In what condition are your rear axle / drive flange splines?
Hi, Just been chasing driveline slack on the Deefer, and boy it has some!!
Replaced the Aframe Ball joint this Arvo (interesting Job NOT). it was totally shot being the original one. Theres still a real bad clunk going on when you move backward and fowards and then let the clutch out real quick, I'm thinking the transfer case input gear,Not sure on how to check this and how to remove to check wear?, Info on this would be greatly appreciated.
cheers Sumo![]()
You should be able to check it by removing the inspection plate on your transfer case. Someone more knowledgeable than I will be along I'm sure. In what condition are your rear axle / drive flange splines?
check all suspension bushes....not just by eye but get a small pry bar and use a little leverage. Also check engine/gearbox/t/case mounts....
Is the slack noise inside the transfer case/gearbox ?
- Saw one pulled down, with the same mighty clunk/clang/bunny-hop.
The sound was clangy, (prop-shaft style) like stuffed uni joints, only with more bite to it, and the solid thunky feel that vibrated the whole car. Once mobile, it could be controlled by careful clutch use and engine/road speed matching.
Technical bit:- - there was a splined shaft wot was driven from inside a smallish pair of gears with a solid shaft between them. Apparantly 'cos there's no holes between them, the splines don't get enough lubrication and chew out. Lovely bit of planning......
When the splines finally go... you don't.
Replacement gear has several large holes around the hollow shaft.
Check everything from drive flanges to halfshafts to uni joints to slip joints on props to transfer output shaft bearings to wear between the gearbox mainshaft and transfer input gear to suspension bushes...and hopefully you'll pick up the play along the way. It all adds up. You've already done the A frame balljoint and hopefully diff lash is not too bad.
And centre diff in tfr case as well - thrusts, gears and shafts wear out. Box out fix.
Pete
Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE![]()
Hi Sumo, With the 2 county's and 1 disco that I have rebuilt Gbox and transfer the slop has been in the input gear to tranfer and out put shaft from gearbox. They don't get oiled properly and there are a number for slingers and crossdrilled gears avaliable to fix it. I have a PTO on mine so at servicing I remove the PTO and grease it. The other place is the thust washers in the center diff. There are 4 copper ones which were as thin as tobacco paper on mine, and 2 that set the dack lash. These ones you can get in 0.1mm increments that took 95% of the backlash out of the driveline.
Tim
+1Originally Posted by Freestyler
My input gear in the TC was worn, and replacing it with a cross drilled one took up a lot of the slack. But as others have said, its death by 1000 cuts so don't be disheartened if you fix something and it doesnt all go away.
Also I think if you put fit the hardened drive flanges you will transfer the wear to your axles.. I've no proof or experience of this its just my assumption.. I'm sure others will confirm it deny.
Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)
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