LT230 Centre diff damage

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Originally Posted by wagoo

Serg, I got caught twice in different vehicles in the exact scenario I described,in the same lane. The first time was in a Stage one V8 which I initially put down to the very poor tramp control of leaf sprung Landy front suspensions. The second time was in a RangeRover classic with all bushings, dampers etc in good condition, and that was almost as ugly, which surprised me a little, but less so when I considered that the front damper location on top of the axle does nothing to inhibit tramp and radius arm bushings that are soggy enough to allow articulation don't offer much tramp resistance either.
The big diff in the bum as I alluded to earlier is mandatory with selective 2wd/4wd conversion,a modification I would do to any constant 4wd LandRover that I intended to use as a daily driver in traffic conditions.The before and after difference in driveline backlash has to be experienced.
Bill.

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Bill my stage 1 does this sometimes and its frightening.
Very easy to spin the front tyres on bitumen when turning.
Glad that I have a 4 pinion diff in the front

Duane

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Originally Posted by uninformed

yeah the backlash reduction is definitly a bonus, but something I dont notice as its all Im use to. A mate converted his lt230 to part time, due to the fitting of portals and their extra gear train. free wheeling hubs where also made/fitted ;)


That mob in Vic you mentioned, would they do an exchange or supply a hemisphere for non locals?

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I don't know Serg. an exchange one without them first seeing and measuring the 'core' would likely be dimensionally different and then require the client to reset the bearing preloads.Of course that is something you or I would check anyway, but there are some who wouldn't and then blame the reconditioners when the transfercase whines or is sloppy or burns out bearings.
bill.

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Originally Posted by wagoo

I tend to agree with Tebone.
One scenario where I find constant 4wd a PITA is when exiting a lane or driveway onto a busy road. You have a bit of left hand lock wound on,One or both front wheels are in the gutter, you see a short break in the traffic and give it some berries to accellerate into the traffic stream and all you get is massive front axle tramp with the possibility of breaking a front diff, halfshaft, CV joint, or all of the above because the centre diff,together with the front diff sends power to the wheel (left front) with the least resistance.Due to the 2:1 step up ratio of differential action multiplied by both the centre and front diffs, that spinning hopping wheel is spinning at 4 times the speed it would if all 4 wheels had equal traction.You can imagine the shockloading on that wheels drive components once the other wheels get a bit of drive.
For Australian conditions where the majority of the populace do not live in the snow belt, constant 4wd is an unnecessary complication IMO. A competent 4 wheel driver knows when to engage the front axle to improve vehicle control on loose slippery surfaces.
A decent strong diff in the bum and selective 4wd is all that is needed IMO, but LandRover steadfastly refuse to provide the former with later models
I knew a bloke many years ago who was a dead set Hoon who used to try to impress everyone by doing burnouts in his 400 cu inch Chev powered Rangey. He broke virtually everything on that vehicle untill he made a spool for the centre diff to allow selective 2wd/4wd and slapped a built 9'' diff in the bum.Very few problems after that despite him remaining a hoon.

Bill.

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Bill, wouldn't the main reason he was now not breaking anything, be that he has 1/2 the traction he used to have?

Like Serge I find the fulltime 4wd the best single feature of my rover. Having plenty of traction without having to scrub everything up by selecting 4wd and having front and back diffs forced to turn the same speed around all the corners. I don't have any significant tramp on hard surfaces in my rangie with poly bushes in the radius arms. It does start hopping if I try to play tractor pull (trying to pull out a stuck tractor and having it not budge).

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Originally Posted by Dougal

Bill, wouldn't the main reason he was now not breaking anything, be that he has 1/2 the traction he used to have?
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Well no Dougal,not in the way he drove the vehicle.It's all about the smoke with hoons you see! On the bitumen where he did the majority of his hooning, he had more traction than before when he did his burnouts with the centre diff unlocked, because under severe accelleration there is a lot of weight transfer to the rear axle, and with 35'' mud terrains in combination with the rear locker there was sufficient traction to rip the rear trailing arm mounts from the chassis, which he then had to substantially reinforce.
bill.

I have to say I've not experienced any front end tramp either, but then I only have an anaemic Tdi :angel:

(I'm not experienced with Tramps at all.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it :D)

Bill, regarding the tramps, I will try and re/create it in the next few days. I do wonder if spring rate, shock valving, and bush type (material and width) are playing a part. Currently I run 200lb springs, Koni 80 series shocks and have the later/wider type RA's with oem rubber at the axle.

would lift make it better or worse?

I would not want 2wd on road after having a series as well, I like the added braking/ better grip in cornering and to me safer in the wet. Each to their own and if 2wd works better for a person more power to them.

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Originally Posted by TimNZ

This one perhaps?

Ashcroft Transmissions - HD Cross Pin

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Hi All

Ordered my heavy duty cross shaft today, along with a second one for a mate who had dropped by.

I find Ashcroft's pretty good to deal with.

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Rick, i'll admit to having my fair share of experience with tramps in my younger, boozier days. It's a wonder I still have both arms:)
Serg. I'm not certain shock valving would have much influence, because being mounted atop the axle tube I can't see how they would inhibit/damp axle housing rotation which is what I am referring to with the word tramp.
The dampers on 80 series Landcruisers and GQ/GU Patrols,mounted behind the axle centre would seem to be better able to control tramp.
But like you say, each to their own. If you haven't experienced the issues I mentioned and the vehicle suits your purpose, all well and good.
For so called hardcore 4wdriving i use my hybrid.For commuting, medium to softroading, or if the wife has to drive, we use our Jackaroo even though we have the use of a much more powerful and just as economical 4,4 LPG RRC in sound mechanical order. My wife can't stand the standard issue backlash, and I've got less tolerance for it than I used to have as well.
I use 4wd for control on the gravel secondary roads in our region without any windup issues on the Jackaroo, and the rear diff is sufficiently strong that it's not really necessary to share the drive between front and rear diffs when towing loaded car or water tank trailers around.
Bill.

Hi Guys,
The reason for me changing to the 2wd centre diff mod was traction problems and spider gear failure. I have a 86 rangie with a supercharged 383 chevy under the bonnet.
Whilst towing my camping trailer the front wheels (33inch) uesd to spin taking off from the lights and coming out of round abouts with using not to much throttle at all ( keeping in mine it produces alot of torque down low). After a while it gets a little annoying.
With the auto and the centre diff mod it has very little back lash and its far easy to drive especially under acceleration which the steering doesn't get loaded up or pull left or right following the road contours

PS: I have upgraded the rear to a salisbury, upgraded brakes to defender and have broken a diff yet which is a pleasure to drive and brake now.

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Originally Posted by tebone

Hi Guys,
The reason for me changing to the 2wd centre diff mod was traction problems and spider gear failure. I have a 86 rangie with a supercharged 383 chevy under the bonnet.
Whilst towing my camping trailer the front wheels (33inch) uesd to spin taking off from the lights and coming out of round abouts with using not to much throttle at all ( keeping in mine it produces alot of torque down low). After a while it gets a little annoying.
With the auto and the centre diff mod it has very little back lash and its far easy to drive especially under acceleration which the steering doesn't get loaded up or pull left or right following the road contours

PS: I have upgraded the rear to a salisbury, upgraded brakes to defender and have broken a diff yet which is a pleasure to drive and brake now.

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I have the same front tyre traction issues towing. But I could avoid it if I wanted to.:angel:
A BW transfer might be more suitable if that's your main problem. Towing stuff around offroad gets difficult if I only have the choice of 2wd or locked 4wd.

I had shocking backlash, the front diff was the worst. Between swapping the axles to later disco items and the transfer for a higher ratio low km (was around 400-500,000km, now around 80,000km) one I'm pretty happy with how that side of it runs.