Thread: LT230 Centre diff damage

I'll be doing my Tdi next year with 450k's on the clock,it has alot of backlash. Pat

Originally Posted by Psimpson7

I bought a rebuild kit and heavy duty cross pin for my lt230 a while back to fit before I fitted the underdrive. ..

Can you show us a picture of the heavy duty cross shaft?

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Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Can you show us a picture of the heavy duty cross shaft?

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This one perhaps?

Ashcroft Transmissions - HD Cross Pin

Originally Posted by Psimpson7

I bought a rebuild kit and heavy duty cross pin for my lt230 a while back to fit before I fitted the underdrive. One reason I decided to do this was that I had found some bronzey shavings in the oil previously.

I finally got around to starting to strip the transfer this week.

Bear in mind that this is out of my 90. It is 2001 and has done 75k miles from new, and has been serviced at ridicuosly frequent intervals due to the use that it gets

spot whats missing:



Yep every single bloody shim from behind the planetary gears:



This is the resultant damage in the centre diff housing itself. Bugger!

I find it funny the whole load of whining about electrical issues and electronic problems on later LR's and all I ever seem to smash is the big solid heavy lumps of steel!

Makes me wonder how long these shims actually last in normal use and also hard use..

The vagaries of what I may find in my transfer is part of the reason,that I am going to fit an Ashcroft transfer in my Defender when I fit my Underdrive.At least I will know the actual cost upfront,and won't have to worry about all the hidden extras that pop up,and add to the cost,and to the down time.I know that I have a leak at the intermediate shaft,and it will more than likely need a steel sleeve fitted to the housing,so there is already extra cost and downtime,so a reco. makes sense for my application,and I will still have my original to repair at my own pace as a spare if ever required.Apart from the leaking intermediate shaft,my transfer appears and operates perfectly,except that the original owner had fitted the filler plug in at an angle.It doesn't leak,but every time I see it,it annoys me

Wayne

The HD cross pin that Tim linked is the one Arthur.

After getting some advice, we are going to rebuild it as it is with new cross pin, and new shims. Apparently it doesn't look too bad.

Originally Posted by Psimpson7

The HD cross pin that Tim linked is the one Arthur.

After getting some advice, we are going to rebuild it as it is with new cross pin, and new shims. Apparently it doesn't look too bad.

There are steel shims that you can use instead of the brass ones, which will last longer, but they should be included (in 2 sizes) with the HD cross pin.

There is a firm in Moorabin east of Melbourne that re machines the hemispheres, supplies extra thick thrust washers and a one piece cross shaft. The firms trading name is Total Traction Drivelines.and Matt the proprietor is easy to deal with, unlike his former employer Jeff Mac diffs who also rebuild CDs.
It was discovered that in many instances on original CD carriers that the surface of the hemisphere was not concentric with the side gear spigot bores.
What happens then is that instead of all 4 pinion gears sharing the load, only one or two gears do the work for a while until their thrust washers and/or the hemisphere seat surface wears down, whereby the other gears gradually come in to play. That is why thrust washer wear is uneven and depth of wear in the hemisphere is generally not equal at each pinion gear position.
On that basis it is quite clear that a remachined and true (concentric) rebuilt CD , with all 4 pinion gears sharing the load from the beginning will be stronger and last much longer than an original one.
Fitting a new set of thrust washers to an unevenly worn hemisphere is just a band aid fix that gives the same un equal load sharing between the gears as original.
Bill.

A Month ago I had a similar failure in a 2008 130. Ended up replacing the whole case as the intermediate shaft had also flogged the case out. A good low mileage used one was cheaper than a rebuild.

The puma 130 had covered 110,000km.

I wouldn't be fitting it back together using that diff housing , the side gears look to have caused too much damage to the case.

I see a lot of D2's now with bronze particles in the oil when drained, these get the thrust washers addressed ASAP because the next thing is the CD housing gets destroyed like in those pics, and costs a LOT more to replace.

JC