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Thread: Attaching spare mount to bonnet - rivets or bolts?

  1. #1
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    Attaching spare mount to bonnet - rivets or bolts?

    Thinking about the weight of a tyre and rim, are aluminium rivets going to be strong enough to do this or am I better off using nuts and bolts. I did have stainless ones picked out for the task but am led to believe that this may cause corrosion by electrolysis of the alloy faster than normal.

    What is the "acceptable" or the best way to fit this?

  2. #2
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    I just used rivets and the three (?) bolts that came with the kit. But I did weld in extra bracing into the frame as the tyre is fairly big at 32 X 11.50 X 15. It's been there for the last 100K Km with no issues and many K's on rough corrugated roads.

    I think the rivets I used were Commodore window reg rivets, but not sure.

  3. #3
    Tombie Guest
    Acceptable all depends on the level of risk you would like

    If, in the event you hit someone, and the wheel on bonnet fitment is not factory, and the wheel breaks free (tears free) and hits / maims / kills someone....

    Well, you get the point....

    40lbs of tyre + rim will do a lot of damage

    (As a side note - fitting the wheel to the bonnet of a vehicle that didnt have that option - eg... TD5s - Is illegal.... )

  4. #4
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    I've just installed a bonnet mount for my spare with rivets. Only problem is that the bolts are too short! I've got a 6.5x 16 steel spare with a 265 tyre on it, and the bolts don't go high enough to reach the rim.


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  5. #5
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    It is on a series 3 which has the fitting as standard but a couple of the bolts are missing.

    Would the stainless bolts be ok if they were fitted with silicone or similar to stop direct contact with the alloy?

    I'm just concerned that as the factory fitting tends to be rivets, unless steel rivets were used, the movement may tend to shear through the alloy shaft of the rivets in time (that seems to happen to other rivets on the car from time to time with movement and general wear).

    As said, a heavy tyre breaking loose in a collision is not a pleasant option so fittings the same or better than original need to be considered.

  6. #6
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    no, stainless is a bad plan unless your going to use the proper seperating plasticy washers. Mild steel or Gal is a workable choice, Mines held on by 3 rivets to locate it then the rest are dome headed bolts.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by nobbyclrk View Post
    I just used rivets and the three (?) bolts that came with the kit. But I did weld in extra bracing into the frame as the tyre is fairly big at 32 X 11.50 X 15. It's been there for the last 100K Km with no issues and many K's on rough corrugated roads.

    I think the rivets I used were Commodore window reg rivets, but not sure.
    how do you find lifting the bonnet with the tyre attached? what type of bonnet stay do you have? where abouts is the stay located? and did you make any modifications to the stay to cater for the extra weight?

  8. #8
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    This way seems to work pretty well
    G187-12.pdf
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    The bonnet spare wheel brackets on series vehicles were fitted from standard with aluminium rivets and they have obviously stood the test of time and numerous other torcherous tests throughout the life of thousands of Land Rovers.
    Once the aluminium rivets are hammered down the "shear strength" of them would be huge.
    Try cutting one with a pair of side cutters before use then give one a few good belts on the end with a hammer or air tool and then try to cut it with side cutters. They end up being a bloody lot harder.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BreakingBad View Post
    how do you find lifting the bonnet with the tyre attached? what type of bonnet stay do you have? where abouts is the stay located? and did you make any modifications to the stay to cater for the extra weight?
    lifting the bonnet is not to hard you can stand on the bumper, but puting it back down without crushing your fingers is the hard bit

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