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I won't argue with "HEXed".... :D
Everything touched on this car becomes a 4 hour saga....
When I undid the hub locking nuts...they were'nt tight at all, barely hand-tight. Bearings are clean and free, re-packed the outer and added to the inner as I was'nt keen on disturbing the seal.
-Nice and 'firm' now. No discernable slack when I rock the wheel.
Happier now :D:D:D
Yep. can see that now.Quote:
Originally Posted by p38arover
Ron, How do you get the pic to be full-sized and in the body of text, as opposed to the way my pics presented as thumbnails ?
Seeing the hex ain't so easy when looking at the bolt itself but it is when looking at your excellent pic.Quote:
Originally Posted by superquag
How did I get a big pic? I cheated. I opened your thumbnail, copied the URL from that pic, and pasted it into my reply.
apologies, reread the post, must be getting old.
Jeez, SuperQuaq,if a couple of easy to get caliper bolts can give you that much Heartache , then god knows what you did to the upper RAILKO mounting bolts that enable you to lift the caliper off without disconnecting Brakelines. and while you were at this repacking thing ,how did you go with pre-load setting on the swivel housing .
What was this repacking of the bearings actually going to achieve ? Was the grease contaminated ? was there the incorrect level of grease? was the grease of the correct type ?.
Next time , just pull the outing bearing,scrape out what you can ,half to 3/4 fill the cavity,put it back together again ,correctly seating ,torquing it up again.
More bearing failures are caused by human interventions ,such as repacking , then all other failure modes put together.Obviously if you find abnonrmalities in tbearing or the lubricant,then a bearing replacement is due ,repacking it is only delaying the inevitable.
It might come as a shock to all that Rolling element bearings do not "Wear" out .
They all follow the failure pattern of "RANDOM" failure.Therefore the probabilty of failure is the same ,whether it be 10 seconds or 1000 years old .
Re-packing bearings was'nt the prime objective, checking/setting the wheel-bearing slop was. - Rocking the wheels was'nt the only pointer to excess run-out...
And yes, it was way too much, plus the pair of locking hub-nuts could be rotated as a pair, with the outer undone by fingers. Not a "Good Look".
Cleaning out & replacing grease was a bonus for the bearings... may as well do it whilst the hub was off, and your suggestion was, incidently, a fair description of how I did it.
Changing the grease is beneficial in my experience, gets rid of the microscopic metal 'grinds' that in turn chew out more of the rollers & outer shell.
- Picked up that gem from my farm days, and talking to Fitters/Engineers at work before I retired.
Checking and cleaning is how I've side-stepped Random bearing failures.... Got'em before they went too far.
On a 93 there should be a locking plate under each of the nuts, which has one flat bent over so that the nuts cannot move. Your post suggest to me there were no locking plates on yours?Quote:
And yes, it was way too much, plus the pair of locking hub-nuts could be rotated as a pair, with the outer undone by fingers. Not a "Good Look".
The bearing nut should not be tight, as you need only to nip up the tube spanner by hand until you cannot turn any more , spin the hub a few times then back off one flat or half a flat.
If you do not have locking plates please get them and fit them.
Regards Philip A
Oh the locking plate is indeed there... the thing was when I poked a screwdriver in between the plate and nut to lever it away ,
- BOTH nuts/plate rotated as a unit as I pushed/twisted the screwdriver.....:o
Then when I wiped the outer nut ... it turned with finger-pressure only, did'nt need my fancy $17 Hub Wrench for that.
"Is it normal to find such loose locking nuts on a RR wheel hub ?" - (Rhetorical Question, don't bother biting!)
I'm grateful that there was'nt a dangerous amount of slack there.:eek: and glad you all answered my silly question about the bolts...
Unless the Stealer service did them in the first 70k for the Original Owner, they have'nt been done since...as I suspect the PO's mechanic was not LR familiar.
(Original owner, New to 70K, Previous Owner from 70K to c. 140K, Mine since)
Cheers from James in Gosnells
PS, Phil, I like your method... quicker than the double-tensioning ( LR ) technique.
If the nuts turned together, you either have no locking washer, or if there is a locking washer it has broken off the tab that engages in the keyway on the hub tube.
If you put it back together with a locking washer that has no way of locking into the hub tube then you are risking your life. Either get a new locking washer or take it to someone that knows what they're doing. If that wheel come off at speed you could kill someone, Regards Frank.
G'day Frank, - think our posts crossed, but to clarify...Quote:
Originally Posted by Tank
The threaded section of my '95 Classic hub has a flat section, and my locking washer has a flattened hole that fits it perfectly. Very close fit. This is what stops the lock-washer - and hence the two Big Nuts from rotating.
Other models may have a machined groove that locates a tab. Does the same job.
Have seen that arrangement before though most of my other cars/trailers etc used the cotter pin arrangement. Some both.
None of my previous wheels have gone missing in action...
Pic is an 'end-on' view of the RH front hub, outer bearing race is removed and we're looking at the inner. Shows the flattened section. Other pic is pinched of eBay.